Developed by three ex-Clarins staff, the Singapore-based online service focuses on being personalised and conscious.
TEXT KAYCE TEO PHOTOGRAPHY DARREN CHANG ART DIRECTION SHERLI CHONG HAIR BENEDICT CHOO MAKEUP SHA SHAMSI, USING NARS, BURBERRY & M.A.C
We’ve done conscious living, conscious eating, of course, and conscious uncoupling. So why shouldn’t we be equally deliberate and proactive with the stuff we put on our skin?
For Constance Mandefield, 37, and Tuyen Lamy, 40, founders of beauty start-up Alcheme (say al-kuh-mi), such an approach isn’t just logical – it’s necessary.
“We have become increasingly aware of elements which pose a risk to our well-being – air pollution, pesticides in fruits and vegetables, hormones in meat,” says Mandefield. “With products coming from all over the world, we have little knowledge or control over how they’re made or transported and how they may affect us.”
So the duo decided to take action with what they know best: skincare. Both had worked for several years at the Asia-Pacific office of French cosmetics brand Clarins: Lamy headed the retail and training team; Mandefield was overseeing strategy. And both believe the future of skincare lies in personalised, highperformance products made from top-quality, traceable ingredients. The culmination of their experience and conviction: Alcheme (https://alcheme.one), custom-order skincare, launched in November last year.
Lamy calls it “intentional skincare”. “Being conscious of what you put on your skin and how the ingredients are derived leads to smarter and more sustainable decisions,” she says.
Collaborating with Lionel de Benetti, a retired chemist who was Clarins Group’s head of R&D, they came up with a list of 24 ingredients that had science-backed track records for Alcheme’s customised skincare. These include zinc sulphate for oil control, vitamin B3 to normalise melanin, and ginseng root extract to stimulate collagen production. “We also source the ingredients from ‘blue chip’ suppliers who can ensure quality and traceability,” says Lamy.
That’s the first part of what makes Alcheme different. The second: how it uses an algorithm developed by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology to determine your skin condition and concerns. How? It compares your makeup- and filter free selfie (which you can take on the site or upload) with a database of some 20,000 faces of different ages from different places. It also factors in your answers to five questions (from how important skin radiance is to you, to how reactive your skin is to products), and where you live for your city’s UV, air-quality and pollution indexes.
All that takes a minute. Then you’ll get a preliminary analysis on the skin concerns you should address, and the ingredients that will do the job.
“We go through each and every selfie to double-check the analysis and take in any feedback the customer has. For example, if she indicates that she has dry skin, but we can see shiny areas typical of people with oily skin, we e-mail her our feedback and start a conversation from there,” says Mandefield.
After both customer and website agree on the skin analysis, Alcheme’s Singapore lab starts work on your personalised, paraben- and silicone-free skincare, which will either be a serum or an emulsion, or both, not a 10-step routine.
“Alcheme’s innovative processes are designed to create fresh, on-demand products using extracts that address specific skin needs, nothing more, nothing less,” says Lamy. “So we only make the quantities required, cutting down on wastage.” Your serum and emulsion come in airless, recyclable packaging, and will be mailed to you within a week.
Post-purchase, Alcheme provides a monthly newsletter which customers can subscribe to for personalised tips on specific skin types and concerns. This supports its aim of raising awareness among consumers to help them make better, more conscious decisions. – KT
Alcheme makes just two products – a serum (below left, $95) and an emulsion ($105). If you want both, it will adjust the amount of active ingredients in them so that they deliver the best results when used together. This June, the brand will introduce the first customisable eye serum.
PHOTOGRAPHY ELVINA FARKAS/ANUE MANAGEMENT STYLING BRYAN GOH HAIR CHRISTVIAN WU/TRIMMINGS SALON & SPA MAKEUP MELISSA YEO, USING SISLEY MODEL VAL/MANNEQUIN DRESS & EARRING CHLOE
To help you look less tired, Bio-essence’s Bio-gold Eye Power Illuminator uses peptides that are said to reduce puffiness in 10 minutes. And vitamin B3 in the gel product is meant to improve the skin barrier, soothe redness, brighten, and prevent moisture loss. $36.90 – SW
Haircare for Your Wants
Shopping for haircare can be confusing. If your hair is coloured, do you get products for coloured hair, or for damaged hair? What if your coloured hair is also frizzy? Do you then buy frizz-control products? Hair Rituel by Sisley simplifies things with its botanical-based, sulphate-free range. It doesn’t cater to specific hair or scalp types, but to the way you want your hair to look. It comprises Revitalizing Volumizing Shampoo ($98), Revitalizing Smoothing Shampoo ($98), Restructuring Conditioner ($90), Regenerating Hair Care Mask ($122), Revitalizing Fortifying Serum ($250), and Precious Hair Care Oil ($130). Both shampoos cleanse and maintain the scalp. Use the volumising one for fuller hair, whatever your hair type; if it’s smoother hair you want, opt for the smoothing one. Then, depending on how dry your hair is, condition it with the conditioner or mask. Add the oil if you need more moisture. Apply the serum as if it were skincare, to keep your scalp in good condition. – SW