ALL THE BUZZ IN FASHION.
ALL THE BUZZ IN FASHION.
A NEW DAWN
As the fall/winter runway shows began in Milan, all eyes were on Daniel Lee, the new Creative Director at Bottega Veneta. Anticipation was riding high—judging from the recent couture season in Paris, it looked like Lee had already managed to convince stylish women on the streets to get out of pointy stilettos and into square-toed sandals on the strength of his pre-fall collection alone. It's this unique vision that the 32-year-old Briton presented in full during his first runway show, balancing a sharp sense of independence and originality while continuing the traditions of Bottega Veneta. Solidly built around leather, the collection featured the material in a diverse array of puffer jackets, tank dresses and skirts. Lee also bonded leather with neoprene into motocross gear, and supersized the House's signature intrecciato weave on bags and coats. Square-toed pumps (in all shapes and styles) and biker boots walked the runway. Knits featured prominently—soft white jumpers lined in gold chains as well as knee-length sweater dresses with distinctive clavicle-baring necklines showed off complex draping and distinctive layering. At the end of the show, one thing was clear: Fans of the brand can rest assured that its ethos of stealth luxury remains, updated with a modern edge for a cool take on Italian luxury.
The collection showed off tailored suiting with a reconstructed twist
MIX 'N’ MATCH
While Sportmax’s fall collection went sporty with nylon padded dresses and bomber jacket silhouettes, an unexpected element was generous dose of of tailored suiting—albeit chopped in to separate parts and stitched back together again. This hybrid technique led to the creation of jacket-skirts pieced together from midsections of two suit jackets, paraded down the runway paired with crisp, white nylon button-ups. Meanwhile, two jackets—one blue and one grey—were spliced together like patchwork, such that the end product featured grey shoulder panels and arms as well as a blue collar and bodice. A true statement suit in every sense of the word.
Clockwise from top: The “Louis Vuitton X” exhibition is being held at 468 North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills; vintage Monogram Sybilla backpack; Monogram Weekender Bag designed by Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton; Monogram Punching Bag designed by Karl Lagerfeld
ART-CHIVE
To celebrate their vast legacy of artistic collaborations, Louis Vuitton has unveiled “Louis Vuitton X”, at Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, a comprehensive exhibition covering 160 years of the brand’s history with over 180 items from their archives. There, you will find everything from 20th century special-order LV trunks to newly launched Artycapucines bags made in collaboration with six contemporary artists. Other historyladen items include iconic monogram bags reworked by the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Rei Kawakubo, as well as specially commissioned art by art and architecture legends like Yayoi Kusama and Zaha Hadid.
EARTH HOUR
For eco-conscious fashionistas who want to shop with a clear conscience.
The range bears a reinvented circular Prada logo that represents the shift to a sustainable, circular supply chain
SECOND LIFE
Prada has a plan to counter the pressing threat of global warming—to potentially cut nylon production’s impact on the earth by 80 percent with their new project, Re-Nylon. The brand debuted a line of bags made with ECONYL, a regenerated type of nylon made from recycled plastic waste collected from oceans, fishing nets and textile fibre waste. Featuring well-loved Prada silhouettes like classic backpacks and the belt bag, this new line is the first step toward the brand’s goal of converting all Prada virgin nylon into the regenerated ECONYL.
Clockwise from top: Stella McCartney romper, about $1,785; Mara Hoff man hemp top, about $332; Mara Hoff man bikini bottoms, about $229; Stella McCartney trousers, about $1,190; Stella McCartney tote, about $1,040; Veja sneaker, about $162, Net-a-Porter
CLEAN SWEEP
Net-a-Porter has launched a new sustainability section of their website called NET SUSTAIN, which features only fashion made with sustainable materials, fair labour, and ethical practices. The new edit will also spotlight clothing that is locally made, thus nurturing the communities they are native to. With exclusive collections by designers like Stella McCartney and seasonal styles from brands like Lemlem, NET SUSTAIN even tags each item with a special label, making the process of sustainable shopping easier than ever.
Clockwise from top: Maple wood backgammon board. Vinyl turntable. A model walks the runway sporting the new Hermès bum bag
LIVING LARGE
As a fashion House rooted firmly in history, it makes sense that Hermès appreciates the value of old-school board games, which hark back to a simpler, more analogue time. That might be why the brand created an exquisite, maple wood backgammon board as part of its homeware range for the fall/winter season. In line with the same nostalgic theme, the collection also includes a beautifully crafted vinyl turntable, complete with a matching case. Among the season’s wearable accessories are the well-loved Hermès silk scarves in a myriad of patterns—from psychedelic rainbow prints to desert-themed shawls, as well as a multitude of leather boots, and one particularly trend-forward calfskin bum bag with the iconic “H” logo in lacquer.
Wong's pieces often feature clean, structural lines along with a signature exposed back
5 QUESTIONS WITH…
ELYN WONG
Homegrown label Stolen was founded back in 2007 by Elyn Wong after she left advertising for fashion. Twelve years later, her brand has forged a reputation for timeless elegance infused with an architectural twist. She speaks to BAZAAR about finding her calling, the influence of art in her work and her new Bhutan-inspired collection.
You worked in advertising for nearly two decades before switching to fashion. Why?
My insecurity as a creative was killing me, and I wanted to start something on my own to validate my own ability. Fashion has always been at the forefront of creativity, so I thought to myself: If I want to explore something new, I might as well really challenge myself.
How difficult was the change?
Psychologically, it was probably like becoming a parent. I have no kids, so I’m just guessing, but Stolen feels like my kid now. Once you’re a business owner, you learn to become extremely positive, because that’s the only way to embrace the uncertainties, challenges and possibilities every single day.
What informs your fashion design?
I don’t look at fashion when I need inspiration for my label—I look at art and architecture instead. They move me a great deal. I am obsessed with Brutalism—I adore the strength and rawness of Brutalist designs, and think straight lines are way sexier than curves.
How much of your personal style is reflected in your collections?
Comfort is my priority so I always ensure my pieces are comfortable before anything else. My personal style favours simple forms and colours mixed in with some vintage pieces for that personal touch.
What about Bhutan inspired your new collection?
The part of Bhutan that moved me the most wasn’t the colourful costumes, the traditional architecture or the exciting festivals, but the silence that accompanied all these overwhelming sensorial stimulants. I wanted to express my very personal experience of Bhutan, so I used the colours I saw there, the shapes and forms that pay respect to the land, and crafts and textures that pay tribute to the devotion of the Bhutanese.
TTSWTR's clothing features precisely embroidered or printed tattoo designs
BODY ART
Provocative or sentimental, tattoos are the ultimate form of self-expression. If you love the tattoo aesthetic but not the pain that comes with it, Ukraine-based fashion label TTSWTRS (read: Tattoo sweaters) has a stylish solution: Well-constructed clothing adorned with anatomically accurate tattoos. With a neutral colour palette and street-style silhouettes, the brand lets the beautiful tattoos—many of which are designed by renowned tattoo artists—take centre stage by embroidering and printing them onto dresses, t-shirts, and of course, sweaters. For their latest collection, the brand introduces an enticing human-anatomy motif on to bodysuits and form-fitting separates.
Embellished silver dress
DREAM FACTORY
For inspiration this season, Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton headed home to the North of England, where she had grown up. And there in its countryside and traditional mills, she found it—specifically in bolts of fine English cloth, woven both by hand and machine. The resultant collection of unconventional suiting and voluminous dresses is marked by Burton’s signature tailoring and quality craftsmanship but it is the level of detail in the back stories of certain pieces that make the clothes so profound. A silver dress embellished with laser-cut metal sequins from the heddles of a loom actually mimics the sounds in a factory when its wearer moves. Elsewhere, a Prince of Wales checked coat showcased ruffled, three-dimensional embroidery inspired by cut-off selvedge edges found on factory floors. Even the seating was inspired-guests sat on bolts of rolled McQueen fabric stock and wools from the very same British mills that spurred the collection.
Clockwise from tom top: Queen Bee : Queen Bee clip charm, $99; Pink Ladybird clip charm, $89; Alphabet charms, $59; Reflexion mesh bracelet, $129; Rose-gold Dinosaur and Butterfly dangle, $99; Best Friends Forever rose and sterling silver dangle, $99, Pandora
NAMESAKE
If you’re looking for a subtle, chic way to express your identity, Pandora’s new release makes it easy with an addition to its popular Reflexions collection: Delicate alphabet clip charms crafted in sterling silver. The possibilities are endless—wear the first letter of your favourite city, your own initials or even a pet name for someone special. Other covetable additions to the brand’s offerings include tiny dinosaur charms, a "BFF" dangle charm accented with a pop of rose gold, and a special treat for today's Instagram mavens-an adorable hashtag clip charm.
Clockwise from right: Prada fall/winter 2019; Bag, Chanel; Off White fall/winter 2019; Max Mara fall/winter 2019
BRING ON THE FUZZY FEELINGS
From fringe to fluffy shearling to faux fur, these are the fun accessories cushioning this season’s runways.
PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT