Form And Structure

The season’s latest skeletonised timepieces are distinguished by compelling aesthetics.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

The season’s latest skeletonised timepieces are distinguished by compelling aesthetics.

ON THE GRID

With their grille-style mainplates, Panerai’s Lo Scienziato skeletonised tourbillon watches are one of the most distinctive demonstrations of openworking out there. In addition, the Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato has other distinguishing features like the military-green hue of details on its flange, counters and power-reserve indicator, as well as an ultra-light, hollow 47mm titanium case that is 3D-printed via a direct laser metal sintering process.

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CLEAR VISION

The airy architecture of the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique Squelette 5395 (shown here in platinum) is made possible by the skilful removal of half its rose-gold movement, giving you a better view of the 41mm timepiece’s impeccable hand-finishing, such as the bevelled edges of the movement’s many edges and the engraved hobnailed pattern on the remaining plate surface.

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FINE FIGURES

Part of the updated Pasha de Cartier collection, the 41mm Pasha skeleton watch in steel features the house’s signature style of skeletonisation. The large, openworked numerals form part of the structure of the watch, giving it a bold, distinctive aesthetic. The watch also features the Pasha’s signature chained crown and an easily interchangeable QuickSwitch bracelet.

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DARK AND MYSTERIOUS

Playing with shadows and light, Hermes puts a dark spin on its equestrian-inspired Arceau model with the  Arceau Squelette. Housed in a 40mm case that references a stirrup with its asymmetrical lugs, the skeletonised automatic movement is revealed through a smoked sapphire dial that has a black rim and a transparent centre.

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DROP A TINT

The latest addition to Bell & Ross’ dressier BR 05 bracelet steel watch family, the BR 05 Skeleton Blue updates the previous openworked version with a blue sapphire crystal. Coupled with the blue tint, the industrial feel of the skeletonised automatic movement gives this 500-piece limited edition a retro-futuristic feel. It’s housed in a 40mm case that contrasts matte brushed surfaces with polished edges.

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BEYOND THE SURFACE

The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One combines its classic figure-eight dial layout with modern aesthetics and technology. For the first time, the brand is using plasma ceramic, which looks metallic, but is actually made by heating white ceramic to 20,000 deg C. The 41.5mm case is coolly complemented by an architectural self-winding movement finished in anthracite grey.

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SHOW OF STRENGTH

All strong angles and contrasting surfaces, Ulysse Nardin’s latest, Blast, is inspired by stealth aircraft and comes in four versions, including this edition in rose gold with a black DLC middle case and a black ceramic bezel. The UN-172 skeletonised automatic movement is melded with a rectangular frame and the X motif, which has clearly become a Ulysse Nardin signature.

PHOTOGRAPHY DARREN CHANG

ART DIRECTION ASHRUDDIN SANI