A leading luxury label celebrates its 50th anniversary with a tribute to the people who made it possible.
At the recent Milan Fashion Week, Bottega Veneta showed its Spring/ Summer 2017 men’s and women’s collections to its largest audience yet. But unlike some other fashion brands which had adopted the new “see now, buy now” system – whereby designs presented on the runway are immediately made available for sale following a show – consumers were not the main focus at the Bottega Veneta event. Indeed, some 250 members of the 1,000-strong audience at the show, which was held at the historical Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera, were Bottega Veneta’s own artisans.
The event, which marked the brand’s 50th anniversary as well as Tomas Maier’s 15th anniversary as its creative director, was a fi tting tribute to the craftspeople who have been instrumental to the Bottega Veneta success story.
MEN OF STYLE Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault (left) and Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier.
Timeless and subtly lush, the men’s styles juxtaposed almost-utilitarian silhouettes – think wide-legged, turned-up trousers – with detailed pieces like patchwork leather jackets.
From silk suits with a slight sheen to fluid, monochromatic ensembles, the designs reflected the easy, yet distinctively luxurious, sophistication that has come to define Bottega Veneta as it passes the half-century mark.
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Of late, tattoo artists have made their marks on leather goods by Berluti and Montblanc. Now, British tattoo artist Saira Hunjan puts her unique imprint on five Tod’s bags.
SINE OF THE TIMES
Whether you’re a mathematics buff or simply appreciate stylish design, Berluti’s new leather goods collection will hold plenty of appeal. For its Pythagora collection, the brand has screen-printed a geometric motifon a selection of its signature leather accessories.
The design adds a dynamic touch to pieces such as Playtime sneakers, the Un Jour Gulliver briefcase (pictured), as well as small leather goods. Berluti fans will also want to watch this space – the label’s recently named new creative director, Colombian-born designer Haider Ackermann, will show his debut Berluti collection next January.
IN PLAIN SIGHT
Military influences are a big trend in many Fall collections, and unlike the real McCoy, are designed to garner admiring attention rather than help its wearer blend into his surroundings. Moncler’s military-inspired winter pieces definitely fulfil the former function – its statement looks include bomber jackets in leather and wool, quilted nylon blouson jackets, and satin parkas lined with fur. Our kind of cold-weather defence.
With its strong lines and swooping curves, the Art Deco style of the 1920s and 1930s influenced the designs of many structures, including, most famously, the Chrysler Building.
Most recently, the designers at Dunhill have sought inspiration from this art movement to jazz up their latest accessories, including pens housed in stainless steel barrels etched with linear detailing, as well as cufflinks crafted from materials such as onyx and sodalite.