Pro terminology to know before you strut into specialist denim boutiques.
Pro terminology to know before you strut into specialist denim boutiques.
01 ARCUATE
That seagull-like decorative stitching on the back pockets, popularised by Levi’s, which was first used it in 1873. Since Levi’s patented the design in 1943, it has become exclusive to the brand.
02 FADING
What others see as signs of wear and tear, denim enthusiasts treat as art. Whiskers (or the Japanese word hige) refer to the horizontal fade lines around the crotch. Fades along the outer seam of the legs are called rail tracks. Those at the back of the knee are known as honeycombs, while fading on the seams is known as atari.
03 DRY/RAW DENIM
Unwashed, untreated denim that purists go crazy over. Jeans made from this stiff fabric in deep indigo blue will mould to the wearer’s body shape, and will develop wear patterns unique to how it is worn.
04 WEIGHT
This refers to the weight per square yard of fabric, and for denim, it can range from five to 20 oz (141.75g to 567g). While lighter denim of around 10 oz per square yard (283g/0.91 sq m) is favoured for summer, purists stick to mediumto heavyweight fabrics that are around 13 oz (368.5g).
05 STAPLE
Staple refers to the fibre length of the yarn used to weave the cloth. The longer the fibres, the smoother the finish. However, denims woven with short-staple yarn have uneven textures that are optimal for fading.
06 SELVEDGE
With a name derived from the self-finished edges that prevent fraying, this tightly woven denim was created first as a cost-cutting measure. However, selvedge denim woven on traditional shuttle looms – machines that use a traditional shuttling device to carry the weft (horizontal) yarns across the loom while interlacing them with the warp (vertical) yarns – is now considered an artisanal fabric.
07 SANFORISATION
