SPRING SUMMER 2020

The New Silhouette (for more hip room) The Collaboration of Collaborations (DVN X CL) The BV Mania (we mean Bottega Veneta) The Roman Sandal (feminine yet comfy) The Froth & Frou (flounce & volume) The Return of The Croc (and we don’t mean the shoe brand)

The White Movement

Yes, it’s a cliche to start a new decade on a clean slate. What’s not: The many ways to do it – from ’90s minimalism to 19th century romanticism.

From left: Louis Vuitton; Max Mara; Miu Miu

From left: Salvatore Ferragamo; Givenchy; Tod’s; Tom Ford; Sportmax; Stella McCartney

From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim; Lacoste; Kate Spade; Dior; Tibi; Prada

From left: Victoria Beckham; Valentino; Simone; Rocha; Burberry; Giambattista Valli; Loewe

The Shoe: The Roman Sandal

The best versions: ankle-strapped sandals or sporty slip-ons with extra ankle ties – just as comfy as any flattie without being casual.

Valentino

The Skirt: Anything But Ordinary

Designers are mostly only nostalgic for styles – tiered, bubble, wrapped, tulip-shaped – from the ’80s and ’90s; not the way that they were worn.

Louis Vuitton

3.1 Phillip Lim

Michael Kors Collection

Marni

Stella McCartney

Michael Kors Collection

Salvatore Ferragamo

Moschino

Maje

The New Silhouette: Pannier

During the 18th century, women wore the structured undergarment (inspired by side- slung baskets carried by donkeys) under their dresses to create an exaggerated “hip”. How does that translate for 2020? It makes for more beautiful jackets and dresses.

From left: Alexander McQueen; Loewe

The Long Over Short

A jacket or lightweight coat for when shorts are more like briefs and dresses are shorter than an oversized tee.

From left: Fendi; Hermes

From left: Versace; Burberry

From left: Saint Laurent; Dior

Salvatore Ferragamo

Longchamp

PHOTO JEAN FRANCIS JOSE

The Bag: The Simpler, The Better

With the addition of rope, straw or bamboo, Miuccia Prada’s buckets and hobos are not just anti-statement – they are simply cool.

The Collaboration of Collaborations: Dries Van Noten x Christian Lacroix

This meeting of two polar opposites – Belgian sensibility and French maximalism – has created the most desirable and delightful collection this season. Lacroix’s ’80s trademarks – animal prints, flounces, poufs, bows, brocade, beading, leg-of-mutton sleeves – are all here, modernised into easy-to-wear pieces and tie-on accents, and anchored by Dries’ white tank top and white jeans, and oversized sweatshirts or bombers.

The BV Mania

Back in late 2018, we were already on the record that Bottega Veneta, under new creative director Daniel Lee, would be one of the most, if not the most, coveted labels in 2019. We were not wrong. From its Maxi Cabat and Lido mule to the square-toe Padded Bloc pump and the sought-after Pouch purse, the Italian brand’s bag and shoes were on almost every influencer last year. And the crave will continue this year.

The 2.0 of Gucci

After five years of referencing every era for the Italian fashion house, creative director Alessandro Michele is clearly ready to move on with sharper tailoring, way less prints, even less colour clashes, and a sexier look.

The Label to Watch: Lacoste

Creative director Louise Trotter, previously with Joseph, didn’t ace her debut for the French brand. She has since made up for it with her second collection that is only sports-inspired. The label’s famous waffled, short-sleeved polo is now boxy, or a floor-length dress; its traditional tennis skirt is long and swishy; and its preppy striped shirt is now roomy and cap-sleeved. But the one thing that will draw the crowds the way Ralph Lauren’s Polo did: a bigger crocodile logo.