Rose-centred scents are no longer matronly or syrupy sweet; Bulgari has managed to create one that is contemporary, sophisticated and light. CARINA KOH reports from Bintan, Indonesia.


Rose-centred scents are no longer matronly or syrupy sweet; Bulgari has managed to create one that is contemporary, sophisticated and light. CARINA KOH reports from Bintan, Indonesia.

When you think of rose fragrances, do you imagine them to be overly feminine, floral and pungent? I, for one, have steered clear of scents with the heady bloom; the note strikes me as too girlie and sometimes reminds me of old ladies. But I’ve since changed my tune after a whiff of Bulgari Rose Goldea EDP, the second addition to the Goldea family. The other member is the warm and earthy Goldea EDP, which was launched in 2015, and has notes of jasmine, orange blossom and ylang-ylang. Lacking the heady quality and coquettish character typical of rose-based scents, Rose Goldea doesn’t assault the senses even though the Damascus rose, the most fragrant of the rose species, is used in it. That’s because Alberto Morillas, the nose behind Rose Goldea, used not just the petals but the entire rose – including the stem, which has a spicy, peppery smell – as an ingredient. Coupled with other notes, such as jasmine, tangy pomegranate and powdery musks, the result is a fruity, floral and spicy blend that smells elegant, light and sexy. Despite being categorised as a sensual fragrance, the scent is very easy to wear. As Valeria Manini, the brand’s fragrance business managing director, puts it, Rose Goldea “is sensual but comfortable. You can wear it every day and for all occasions, [unlike Bulgari’s other sensual perfume Jasmin Noir, which is] more suitable for [night wear] or glamorous events.” She shares that this new scent was inspired by Cleopatra because she knew how to make a grand entrance – like when she arrived in Rome to seduce Marc Antony. Rumour has it she perfumed her ship’s sails with rose water so her scent would reach him even before she did. The Egyptian queen’s influence even extends to the flacon: the cap represents her crown while the brand’s iconic Serpenti snake motif draped around the mouth of the bottle is reminiscent of the cobra diadem she wore when she arrived in Rome.
At $168, Bulgari Rose Goldea EDP is more affordable than the scents in the brand’s Le Gemme range ($499 each). The brand likens this fragrance to its ready-to-wear fashion collection – not crazy luxurious, but still high end – while the Le Gemme ones are more “haute couture”.
A whopping 200 roses go into the making of each 50ml bottle.
Bulgari Rose Goldea EDP, $168.