ALL THE BUZZ IN FASHION.
As the rooftop blinds opened and sunlight poured into the show space at Vauxhall in South West London, Burberry’s new chapter under the charge of Riccardo Tisci began. To Massive Attack’s “Unﬁnished Sympathy”, the soundtrack of Tisci’s time as a Central Saint Martin student, the likes of Maria Carla Boscono and Natalia Vodianova modelled a host of tailored ensembles that were part homage to Savile Row, part ode to Britain. Trench coats, sheer blouses and pleated skirts bore Burberry’s famous check pattern, while shades of beige or wild animal prints on sophisticated negligees and skirt-suits recalled his previous stint at Givenchy. Tisci pushed the idea of experimentation at Burberry further with street-inspired gear, which, in turn, gave rise to a sense of anarchy the storied brand perhaps needed. With his ability to weave ideas of tradition and revolution together into one hit-making narrative, Tisci’s agenda for Burberry looks nothing short of convincing.
From shirt dresses to denim combinations, graphic bags to woven slip-ons, Bimba Y Lola’s latest collection is also powered by a sense of vibrancy.
Bimba Y Lola’s newest collection celebrates the beauty of Mother Earth. The colours and textures of minerals and stones are incorporated into both voluminous and tailored garments, resulting in a fashionable spin on geographic elements. The theme ﬂows through the bags and shoes with ﬁnishes that resemble the earth’s surfaces. A colourful array of statement jewellery pieces with glints of gold, semi-precious stones and organic-shaped shells mimic nature’s glory.
The clutches work well for day and night.
While it’s still months away before Daniel Lee makes his runway debut for Bottega Veneta as its newly installed Creative Director, the designer is setting the tone with a series of launches for the new season. Among them is the Pouch, an oversized clutch that embodies the levels of discretion, quality and unsurpassed craftsmanship synonymous to the Italian Marque. The oversized clutch features soft folds of leather and is available in both natural and saturated colours, as well as a smaller and handier size that is right on the money for the micro bag trend.
Hoodie, $1,450; sneaker, $1,050, Givenchy
Buoyed by the warm reception the pouncing lion graphic print received in July last year, Givenchy’s Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller has reintroduced it on a new range of ready-to-wear pieces this season. A majestic symbol that reﬂects Waight Keller’s own Leo sign, plus a tribute to “a shared love of felines with founder Hubert de Givenchy”, the print of the regal cat lends a ﬁerce and daring attitude to a black sweatshirt, faux fur hoodie, t-shirt, backpack, clutch and sneakers.
The duo expertly contrast layers of materials and shapes to paint their image of a wardrobe for a new way of living.
Founded by designers Keita Ebihara and Elizabeth Soon, Ametsubi is a label that transforms versatile separates into closet investments through a studied use of fabrication, innovative techniques and interesting cuts. For spring/summer 2019, the duo’s exploration of classic wardrobe codes resulted in a poetic mix of prints, translucent layers and languid silhouettes. Some standouts? An iridescent top, an oversized silk dress and fringed denim jacket that prove exactly why it’s worth keeping tabs on this emerging label.
Sneaker hybrids are a dime a dozen these days, but what makes REDValentino’s latest take on the footwear trend so interesting is that it has managed to meld sporty elements with feminine touches. The REDBallet sneakers take their cue from traditional ballet shoes, and further marry functionality with femininity through details such as bows and micro rubber studs. Available in a range of colours including classic nude and black, these shoes were made to be brought along on your next sojourn.
A post-apocalytpic atmosphere can be felt in the displays scattered across the new store.
Shopping at a Gentle Monster store is never just about buying a pair of sunglasses—it’s also about immersing yourself in an experience akin to visiting an art museum. Its store displays are renowned for being conceptual, and the latest edition—seen in the brand’s newest store at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands—depicts a dystopian world. “The story stems from an idea: What if the angle of the moon changes? How will we imagine the impact to be here on planet earth?” explained Lee Jihee, Gentle Monster’s Space Project Manager. “For the store, we focused on the environmental impact that we imagine to happen when this mysterious shift in the moon occurs.” Expect to find an installation that lends a more sombre, introspective tone to the boutique.
From left: Sweater; scarf; wallet; backpack, Etro. Jacopo, Veronica, Kean and Ippolito Etro in a family portrait
GO FOR GOLD
To commemorate its 50th anniversary, Italian luxury fashion house Etro has launched a capsule collection designed by its womenswear and menswear Creative Directors, Veronica and Kean Etro respectively. The streetwear-inspired line gives the brand’s paisley motif a contemporary twist by injecting it with brighter colours and psychedelic graphics while still maintaining the bohemian spirit the family-run and -owned label is known for. Meanwhile, the brand has also lifted the shutters to its newly renovated boutique at Paragon. “This is a signiﬁcant landmark for our entire Etro family. We constantly seek to maintain a traditional quality through pattern, while adding a twist with daring colours and innovative combinations,” said Jacopo Etro, the brand’s Home and Textile Creative Director.
From top: Bucket hats are a key component of the collection. Bag; sandal; ring, COS. A sheer polo dress gives off a sensual attitude. Khaki, a brand favourite, features prominently, too.
STATE OF REFLECTION
A play on proportions and materials is what fans can expect from COS’ spring/summer 2019 collection. Influenced by the fluid movement of water and a gentle breeze, the lightweight designs in knitted mesh and cotton come in a spectrum of calm blues, pure whites, meditative greys and grounding earth tones. High-shine and silk materials with asymmetrical cuts, for example, are draped beautifully to catch the light. Accessories have been crafted to enhance the clothes with their clean and crisp lines: A wide-brim sunhat, a slip-on shoe that can be worn as a slipper or mule, and minimalist sterling silver jewellery are perfect for lazy summer days in the sun.
The bags embody the ideal of craft under the hands of the artists and artisans.
The Lady Dior bag made its debut in 1995 and became an It bag when Princess Diana acquired it during a visit to Paris. Since then, its allur has been reinterpreted through various initiatives such as the Dior Lady Art series, which sees the Parisian label work with artists to reimagine its signature bag. The collaboration returns for a third instalment, and contemporary artists the likes of Haruka Kojin, Lee Bul and Janaina Tschäpe have been given carte blanche to revisit the House icon.
From top: Chain ring; earring; earrings, Monica Vinader
Monica Vinader’s designs are timeless and easy to wear, which is why the brand has built a loyal following since its founding. The brand’s spring/summer 2019 collection is in the same vein: A host of pieces have been designed and made to ensure they are versatile and trend-proof. An example is the latest Linear Solo collection, which will soon be available at the label’s ION Orchard outpost. Inspired by the mud circles and bold sculptures of English artist Sir Richard Long, the range of contemporary spherical earrings, cuffs, necklaces and adjustable rings make solid additions to your arsenal, thanks to their pared-back aesthetic and clean lines.
Clockwise from top left: Victorian details such as puffed sleeves take centrestage. Models backstage at the spring/summer 2019 show. Bows are a major decorative element for the collection. The designer sticks to a uniform of mostly classic, tailored pieces
IN FULL BLOOM
Erdem Moralioglu has managed the remarkable feat of giving Old World romanticism a 21st-century spin. Here, he talks the power of storytelling and learning from the beauty of ﬂowers.
Narratives work as a catalyst for him.
“For me, as a designer, a narrative is something that allows me to start creating, whether or not you are going to read the story when it is hanging on a rail. I think it’s fascinating, taking someone somewhere for eight minutes during a show. It’s a wonderful privilege. It’s a great power of fashion that is often dismissed. Fashion has always been considered as light and without any meaning or soul to it, but I think fashion can convey so many things.”
The story for his spring/summer 2019 collection began with a house.
“I recently bought a house in Bloomsbury, London, where I discovered this plaque dedicated to two sisters who lived around the corner in 1860. They were later discovered to be men. It sparked the idea of gender, Victorian conservatism, and the idea of what would happen if someone like the two sisters lived today? The house is also close to King’s Cross, where you could find plenty of clubs and warehouse parties in the ’80s and ’90s. I then thought of doing these odd Victorian textiles in strange neon colours.”
He balances echoes of the past with a deft contemporary hand.
“It’s applying historical research in a modern way. I’m really interested in that line and playing with that kind of tension. When it works, it’s something that feels almost confusing, but I find that mix very interesting. I like the idea of modernity being injected into clothes. At the same time, I also love the idea of creating a piece that someone can buy and wear in 20 years.”
Flowers represent his interest in the codes of femininity.
“There’s something really wonderful about flowers. They can be dark, poisonous, melancholic and joyful. I’m really interested in the codes of femininity. What are the things that insinuate the feminine? I think that fixation came in the very beginning when I first started my work. I would design a dress, and I wouldn’t necessarily be able to find a fabric that I wanted to make it in, so it was about developing the textiles in the studio. I love textiles and they are an important part of my design process.”
He thinks modern fashion is strange.
“I think the current mood is saturation. The idea of speed, how we look at things on our screens, how people vocalise their opinions… I think the idea of criticism has changed. Fashion critique was always something you could read on the international magazines, or you would wake up the next day and see a review online. Now, it’s immediate. People react to things on Instagram instantly. It seems like there’s so much noise and so much to see. I’m really trying to focus on creating a collection and pieces that people can invest in, keep and wear in their own ways years down the road.”
PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT; COURTESY OF THE BRAND