1 LET THE LIGHT IN
In a surprising turn of events, the king of maximalism has decided that less can be more. Alessandro Michele stripped the Gucci spring/summer 2020 collection of the ornamentation and excess he so loves, focusing instead on cut and colour. The former comprised mostly of pared-back shapes such as slips, pencil skirts, second-skin knits and dresses falling in clean, straight lines. Suits harked back to the ’70s— jackets shrunken, trousers sitting high on the waist and flared at the leg. Colour came in blocks of intense, saturated hues, worn head to toe or clashed unexpectedly. His usual repertoire of prints— chintzy, kitschy or granny chic—was kept to a minimum and for the first time, Michele made overt references to sex via plenty of bare décolleté, skirts slashed thigh high, lace and latex, and see-through dresses accessorised with riding crops and bags that said “Gucci Orgasmique”.
2 REV ON
After outings in New York, Los Angeles, Milan, Paris and Shanghai, Tommy Hilfiger took its TommyNow extravaganza to London, staging its latest spectacle at The Tanks at Tate Modern. It was there that it unveiled its fourth collection with six‑time Formula One champion Lewis Hamilton—a genderles one that stood out for its positive steps towards a more sustainable ethos, with over 75 percent of the collection made using sustainable materials such as recycled denim and a plant‑based fibre to substitute down. Aesthetics‑wise, it was Americana seen through a new lens, and built on the foundation of nostalgic streetwear and utilitarian workwear.
From top: Aluminium cuffs, Hermès. Bag, $1,830, Moschino. Braided leather Baguette bag, $5,690, Fendi. Wedge sandal, $1,800, Christian Louboutin
3 COLOUE THE ORY
With the arrival of spring comes the chance to paint the world a little brighter and this season, designers have taken to bold hues and even bolder colour combinations—mixing shades that normally wouldn’t work together to great effect. Case in point: The emerald and chocolate wicker bags at Fendi. For an even more graphic take, look to the Picasso-esque panes of colour at Moschino and Louboutin’s Lego-like footwear.
4 DOUBLE TROUBLE
Parisian couture and Japanese streetwear collide as Valentino teams up with Onitsuka Tiger for a series of limited-edition sneakers. The styles in fluorescent hues will be available at Valentino’s physical and online stores while Onitsuka Tiger will retail an exclusive pair in its signature tricolour style. Meanwhile, another Japanese brand, Uniqlo, looked to its home country for its latest partnership, tapping Yoon Ahn of jewellery and streetwear phenomenon Ambush to reinterpret Disney’s Minnie Mouse on t-shirts, parkas, cross-body bags and bucket hats.
From far left: Sneakers, Onitsuka Tiger X Valentino. Minnie Ambush parka, $79.90; Minnie Ambush shoulder bag, $29.90, Uniqlo X Ambush
"Menswear takes a turn for the decadent at Paco Rabanne"
5 NEW TERRAIN
In his six-year tenure, Julien Dossena has brought a new resonance and commercial success to Paco Rabanne. This season onwards, he extends his purview to menswear. As with his womenswear, he deftly blends the groovy Space Age aesthetics of the House with his own knack for effortless cool, injecting high-impact glamour into the world of menswear.
"Travis Scott wearing the Air Dior capsule collection created in collaboration with Jordan Brand"
6 WALKING ON AIR
Kim Jones’s eye for buzzy collaborators is almost unparalleled and his latest has fans equally frenzied. During his Dior Men’s show in January, he unveiled the Air Dior capsule in partnership with Jordan Brand. The standout piece sure to generate wait lists is the Air Jordan 1 High OG Dior sneakers, with the iconic swoosh rendered in the equally iconic Dior Oblique motif. In true Dior fashion, they were made in Italy, with the edges all painted by hand. The capsule also includes readyto-wear that features sportswear stripes and the “Jumpman” logo, alongside Air Dior buttons and CD prints. To mark the launch in April, Jones enlisted rapper Travis Scott as the face of the campaign.
7 SONIC SENSATION
High tech meets high fashion in Louis Vuitton’s latest Horizon wireless earphones. Engraved with the LV initials or the House’s signature Monogram flowers, they come in classic black and white or eye-popping red, pink and yellow. New features include active noise-cancelling and ambient listening modes, as well as a longer battery life of 30 hours in total—10 hours in the earphones and another 20 in the charging case, which is inspired by the Louis Vuitton Tambour Horizon smartwatch.
From top: Horizon earphones in pink; yellow, $1,570 each, Louis Vuitton
"Naomi Watanabe fronts the latest Kate Spade New York campaign "
9 SPARK JOY
In a continuation of its highly diverse spring/summer 2020 show, Kate Spade New York has tapped Japanese actress and comedian Naomi Watanabe as its face for the season. Watanabe has emerged in recent years as a fashion darling and a champion for inclusivity in the industry. “Twenty-twenty is about celebrating how women express their own spirit and personal style,” says Nicola Glass, Creative Director of the brand, on the announcement. “To us, Naomi represents all women. Together, we hope to continue inspiring multi-generational self-styled and self-motivated women.”
BY JEFFREY YAN
Edited by Jeffrey Yan