THE NEWS - ALL THE BUZZ IN FASHION. Edited by Jeffrey Yan.
1 READY, HEDI GO!
Hedi Slimane has always been a fashion force to be reckoned with. During his tenure with Saint Laurent, he created youth-driven collections that the public lapped up, proving he had his finger firmly on the pulse. Fast-forward to his first collection as Creative Director of CELINE last year, and the tide turned. Fans were devastated that the House codes of the brand they loved under Philo had been obliviated, and was replaced with an aesthetic that was a little too close to the Saint Laurent formula.
But with his second collection for CELINE, Slimane silenced his naysayers with a refined Parisian bourgeois aesthetic that could not have been further from the glam club kid look he had become known for. Out went the super skinny silhouettes, tight mini dresses and biker jackets; in came the silk blouses, knee-length tweed pleated skirts and tailored jackets. Throw in classic heeled leather boots, printed scarves and horsebit belts and the result is the quintessential French college girl look, polished to perfection. It represented a style evolution no one quite expected, and proved once again that when it comes to fashion, Slimane is playing the long game like the style master he is.
2 FASHION CONSCIENCE
Marking the 10th Conscious Exclusive collection, H&M’s latest sustainable capsule takes as its starting point the glamour of dressing up for a big night out. Imagined for the heady settings of debutante balls and masquerade parties, the collection ranges from rose-printed jacquard and blush tulle dresses, to sequinned minis, velvet suits and beaded capes. New materials used include recycled brass and zinc for the jewellery and accessories, and a new lyocell fibre made from waste cotton. These join mainstay materials such as recycled polyester and organic cotton.
Clockwise from top: Embroidered capelet; drop earrings; embellished hair clip, H&M Conscious Exclusive
The ankle-strap sandal with a laser-carved 8cm heel
3 PLAY OF LIGHT
With an award-winning background in footwear, it’s no surprise that Paul Andrew has breathed new life into the shoe offerings of Salvatore Ferragamo. This season, he introduces the Refracted collection—a capsule of five distinct styles linked by their mirrored, multifaceted heels that catch the light and bounce it off in dazzling ways. The Refracted heel is an evolution of the designer’s earlier Flower heel, which was based on the Column heel designed by the house founder in the ’30s. The uneven texture of the heel is Andrew’s homage to the beauty of irregularity and variety—a key tenet in his stewardship of the brand. The Refracted collection will be made permanent with new styles added every season.
Pleating, draping and folds soften the austerity of Teh's All White Collection
4 BLANG SLATE
Since winning the Harper’s BAZAAR Asia NewGen Fashion Designer Award in 2015, Silvia Teh has quietly taken her brand from strength to strength. Guided by the ethos of slow fashion, Teh releases trans-seasonal collections that exist outside of trends, whims and fads. Her latest is the All White Collection, which Teh envisions as a kind of armour that instills women with confidence. Playing with the tropes of masculine and feminine, the collection pairs precise tailored lines realised mostly in menswear fabrics such as broadcloth and twill, with peplum and shoulder details for a softer counterpoint
The clean lines of the Loewe Postal bag make a perfect background for playful postcard-style illustrations
5 POSTCARD - PERFECT
When it comes to accessories, Jonathan Anderson has proven his Midas touch with a string of winning bags for Loewe. His latest, the Postal bag, looks set to be his next big hit with a structured shape in the supplest leather. Inspired by ’50s frame bags, the Postal arrives at a perfect moment, as fashion returns to a more prim and proper look. Limited-edition pieces feature illustrated vignettes of cities like Madrid, New York, Paris, Tokyo and London—evoking vintage postcards with the Loewe anagram placed where the postage stamp should be. The bags will be exclusive to their namesake cities for a fortnight before the rest of the world can get their hands on them, while the Barcelona Postal will be exclusive to the brand’s flagship store in the city.
FC Barcelona team
6 SUIT YOURSELF
Thom Browne is setting up shop at the Hilton Singapore with a pop-up that will be open through the end of October. As with its other retail spaces around the world, the pop-up sports the signature sleek, minimalist look inspired by the designer’s home and office. For the first time ever, the brand’s bespoke made-to-measure service is being made available in Singapore, as is a customisation programme that allows clients to make their Thom Browne pieces a little more persona with a complimentary four-bar personalisation service.
From top: Furla 1927 saddle bag; Furla 1927 pochette bag, Furla
7 HERITAGE MODERN
As part of its new Furla 1927 collection (named after the year of its founding), the Italian brand has unveiled a fresh logo inspired by the arches of the iconic Fondazione Furla building in its home city of Bologna. The sleek, curvaceous shape has been deployed as a discreet clasp on a series of clean-lined crossbody bags in chic, neutral hues of white, cognac, burgundy and black. Those seeking to make a bolder splash can opt for versions printed with hearts or leopard spots. Furla 1927 also represents a pivot to a new way of distribution— presented recently as part of Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2020, the bags were made immediately available for purchase as the brand dips its toes in the see-now-buy-now model.
From left: blouse; scarf, Max Mara
Max Mara fall/ winter 2019
8 WHAT GOES AROUND
Fashion’s current nostalgia for all things ’90s shows no sign of abating—as Max Mara’s reissue of an archival scarf print from 1991 (which itself was created in a throwback spirit to commemorate the Italian brand’s 40th anniversary) goes to show. Tying together the long, rich history of the brand, the print is a striking collage that pieces together the work of past Max Mara designers: From Madame Beretta who created the brand’s signature camel coat, to luminaries like Karl Lagerfeld, Guy Paulin and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. The reissued print is now splashed across a range of pieces, from silky blouses and scarves to over-the-knee leather boots.
Hennessy Carolina
9 CARTOON HERO
For fall/winter 2019, Jeremy Scott riffed on US game show The Price is Right. In the resulting over-the-top sensory overload that was the Moschino Game Show collection, it was easy to miss that Scott had also resurrected another American retro sensation: The Good Luck Trolls, further hammering home the playful themes of luck and winning. The pop-kitsch dolls are emblazoned across capsule of ready-to-wear and accessories comprising dresses, knits, hoodies, faux furs and t-shirts, as well as belt bags and backpacks; showcased here on Cardi B’ sister, the Instagram star Hennessy Carolina.
From top: Good Luck Trolls top-handle bag, $1,330; Good Luck Trolls t-shirt, $490; Good Luck Trolls A-line dress, $1,690; Good Luck Trolls belt bag, $990; Moschino
Versace fall/winter 2019
10 DO THE BRIGHT THING
Versace has been doubling down on the accessories front lately, launching a brand new handbag line this season called Virtus. Named after the Roman deity of strength and courage, the Italian house’s new bag cuts a striking fi gure with an oversized “V” as its main motif, ornately wrought in a gold baroque font. Crafted from soft calfskin, the Virtus comes in eye-grabbing brights such as turquoise, fuchsia and coral, as well as classic neutrals like camel and black. Sizes range from smaller evening, shoulder and belt-bag styles to roomier fare like totes and top-handles.
From left: Spiked leather boots, Gucci; Camouflage-print lace-up boots, Miu Miu
11 STOMP TROOPER
Miuccia Prada might have sent her models out in girlish braids, femme frocks and haunting blooms, but it would be a mistake to think of them as helpless lasses. Stomping past on high, black tread-soled boots, they exuded a don’t-mess-with-me attitude. A similar rebel spirit coursed through other fall/winter 2019 collections, from the dark moto leathers at Bottega Veneta to the spiked harnesses at Gucci—all paired with lug soles, lace-ups and other forms of combat boots. These are for women who are, if not suited, then definitely booted for battle—bringing a defiant stance to modern femininity.
Multi Pochette Accessoires, $2,130, Louis Vuitton
12 FORM AND FUNCTION
Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest bag for Louis Vuitton is built for maximum versatility. Customisable with two detachable elements, the Multi Pochette Accessories can be adapted to fit multiple occasions, lifestyles, personal styles, and even times of day. The design is a reinterpretation of the Pochette Accessoires, which was launched almost three decades ago. Now shrunken down, the pouch checks off two current major trends—double-bagging and mini accessories—while the addition of a coin purse adds another level of functionality. The bag comes with both a sporty jacquard strap and a slim, elegant chain; allowing for a truly effortless day-to-night transition.
From left: Hooded cotton sweatshirt; crew-neck cotton sweatshirt, Ralph Lauren 2019 Pink Pony Collection
13 AT FIRST BLUSH
For almost two decades, Ralph Lauren has ran a yearly initiative to help in the fight against cancer. Known as the Pink Pony Campaign, it supports programmes that provide screening, diagnosis, treatment, education, and patient navigation services. This year’s Pink Pony collection expands on its off ering for women, men and children; updating classics with fresh graphics and details in a palette of pastel pink, navy, white and grey. The star item of the 2019 collection is the “Live/Love” t-shirt, with 100 percent of the proceeds going to the Polo Ralph Lauren Foundation’s Pink Pony Fund that will benefit an international network of cancer charities. Apart from t-shirts, polo shirts, crewnecks, hoodies and denim, there are also accessories like baseball caps and cashmere scarves alongside homeware pieces like candles and coffee mugs.
