THE BEST COLLABORATIONS REPRESENT THE ESSENCE OF ALL PARTIES INVOLVED.
THE BEST COLLABORATIONS REPRESENT THE ESSENCE OF ALL PARTIES INVOLVED. TOD’S T-FACTORY, WHICH INVITES EXTERNAL NAMES TO INTERPRET THE ITALIAN LABEL’S CODES THROUGH CAPSULE COLLECTIONS, CHECKS THAT BOX. ITS THIRD AND LATEST INSTALMENT FEATURING MAME KUROGOUCHI ALSO PLAYS INCUBATOR, THRUSTING THE UP-AND-COMING JAPANESE LABEL REINVIGORATING TRADITIONAL CRAFT TECHNIQUES WITH CEREBRAL YET WEARABLE DESIGNS ONTO MUST-WATCH LISTS. KENG YANG SHUEN CHATS WITH ITS FOUNDER MAIKO KUROGOUCHI AND DISCOVERS HOW SHE MIGHT JUST BE THE NEXT WOMENSWEAR TALENT WE’VE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR.
Already in stores, the T-Factory – Mame Kurogouchi capsule features 26 pieces spanning coats, dresses and Tod’s signatures like the Gommino loafers and D-Styling Boston bag given founder Maiko Kurogouchi’s (top left) intellectual yet womanly twist. Meant to make looking chic while travelling effortless, everything can be mixed and matched, and fits into a weekender.
WHAT ARE THE SIMILARITIES BETWEEN TOD’S AND YOUR BRAND?
“Apart from the fact that Tod’s is notoriously Italian and Mame profoundly Japanese, there are more similarities than one would expect. Craftsmanship is of fundamental importance for Tod’s as much as it is for me. We both strive to give contemporary relevance to a special, endangered form of knowledge that’s not found in books and can only be learnt through experience. I founded Mame Kurogouchi in 2010 to rediscover crafts in Japan that were in danger of disappearing. Tod’s bases the quality of its products on the way they are made and the materials they are made from. We both aim for something that sits above the fickleness of fashion in different ways.”
HOW DOES TOD’S AND YOUR BRAND’S OWN DNA COME THROUGH?
“My main aim was not to create something for Tod’s, but with Tod’s: a merging of our respective identities. This being a capsule collection that’s available only for a limited period, I also thought it was important to offer something timeless... Thereafter I devised a modular wardrobe that can be adapted to many different needs and situations, and accessorised with my own take on the iconic Tod’s Gommino loafer, a mid-heeled pump with the equally iconic San Crispino stitching, the D-Styling Boston tote and a woven leather market bag. I wanted everything to be modular so I focused colour-wise on blue and black (two of her favourite shades) and Tod’s signature tan hue.”
ELABORATE ON THE CRAFTMANSHIP THAT WENT INTO THIS.
“Craftsmanship is what makes the collection unique, warm and the perfect union of my own identity with that of Tod’s. Its artisans in Le Marche are incredibly skilled, and used leather to tape outerwear and translated the quilting technique of kogin zashi (a traditional form of embroidery) onto leather sandals. Everything is of extremely high quality and tactile.”
WHY IS TIMELESSNESS SO IMPORTANT TO YOU AS A DESIGNER?
“I do not belong to the school of edgy designers. I am interested in a certain permanence. My work is always very personal and my ultimate aim is to make women beautiful through cut and silhouette.”
FROM TRENCH COATS TO THE D-STYLING BAG, THERE SEEMS TO BE A STRONG TRAVEL ELEMENT IN THIS 26-PIECE COLLECTION.
“It’s the pillar upon which the whole collection was built on and another element that connects Tod’s to Mame. (Tod’s chairman) Diego Della Valle told me that the Gomminos were invented during a trip to the US. I travel a lot and I like my luggage light and ready for any situation that might occur, so the collection is designed to fit in a Boston bag like the D-Styling with every piece able to be mixed with everything else.”
WHAT ARE THE KEY PIECES IN THIS COLLECTION?
“The field jacket with curved sleeves and elongated cuffs best embodies my work on cut and silhouette and my take on practical everyday clothing made special; given a sophisticated twist. There’s a liquid silk dress and an anorak that are perfect not only for the countryside, but also the city. So are the iconic Tod’s D-Styling bag, leather mesh market bag and detachable pouch on the hold-all. The idea is to make the life of the wearer easier and very elegant... There are no logos because I prefer a kind of discretion. A perfect example is the D-Styling bag: Its central seam is so iconic and representative of Tod’s craft that there’s no need to add anything else, so we didn’t.”
HOW HAS YOUR GENDER INFLUENCED THE WAY YOU DESIGN?
“As a woman, I know women’s needs and can try things on myself. I opted for a Gommino mould that’s more slender than the classic one for instance, because I wanted something that made the ankle look slimmer and could be worn with dresses and pants.”
