Eat

Taste of paradise

A wave of Hawaiian food is sweeping across the island. And it’s as healthy as it is delicious.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

A wave of Hawaiian food is sweeping across the island. And it’s as healthy as it is delicious.

TEXT MARNIE SOMAN SCHWARTZ PHOTOS TED CAVANAUGH
TEXT MARNIE SOMAN SCHWARTZ PHOTOS TED CAVANAUGH

Asian, Pacific Island, European and American. Fuse these cuisines and you get a hint of the new Hawaiian cooking. The focus is on seafood and vegetables, whose flavours are heightened with bold seasonings and inventive sauces. Yet the dishes are simple, clean and sharp. Chef Bradley Lum and Josefa Carballo Lum, the owners of the Hawaiian hot spot Grindz in San Francisco, are helping to pioneer the island-food refresh – starting with these three favourite dishes.

Poke Salad
Serves: 4 
ACTIVE TIME: 5 MINUTES
TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES

> 450g fresh sushi-grade yellowfin tuna, cut into 2cm cubes
> ⅛ Vidalia or sweet onion, julienned
> 1¼ tsp ginger, freshly grated
> 1 scallion, thinly sliced (green part only)
> ¼ cup poke sauce (see recipe below)
> 2 tbsp sesame oil
> 2 tbsp canola or olive oil
> 1 tbsp rice vinegar
> ¼ tsp sesame seeds (optional)
> 225g mesclun
> 225g grape tomatoes, halved
> ½ English cucumber, diced into 1cm cubes
> 1 avocado, pitted and cubed
> Furikake (find this Japanese seasoning blend at Japanese marts, or buy it online)

1. In a medium bowl, toss together tuna, onion, 1 teaspoon ginger, scallion and poke sauce. Cover. Refrigerate for 15 minutes.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together sesame oil, canola oil, rice vinegar, remaining ¼ teaspoon ginger and sesame seeds, if using. Add mesclun and toss to coat.

3. Divide greens among four plates or bowls and top with tomatoes, cucumber and avocado. Place poke on the plates and sprinkle with furikake.

Nutrition facts per serving 365 calories, 22g fat (2.8g saturated), 11g carbohydrate, 31g protein, 4g fibre, 716mg sodium

Poke Sauce
MAKES: 1¾ CUPS
TOTAL TIME: 1 MINUTE

> 1 cup organic tamari
> 2 tbsp granulated sugar
> ½ cup water
> ¼ cup sesame oil
> 1 tbsp crushed red pepper flakes

Place tamari, sugar, water, sesame oil and red pepper in a small bowl. Whisk together for about 30 seconds, until sugar dissolves.

Nutrition facts per tablespoon 27 calories, 2g fat (0.3g saturated), 1g carbohydrate, 1g protein, 0g fibre, 575mg sodium

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Garlic Shrimp
Serves: 4 
ACTIVE TIME: 10 MINUTES
TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES

> 2 tbsp olive oil
> 450g shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails left on
> 1 tbsp minced garlic
> 2 tbsp sliced scallion (green part only)
> 2 tbsp poke sauce (see recipe, previous page)
> ¼ cup dry white wine
> 2 cups cooked rice, for serving

1. In a large heavy skillet over medium-high, heat olive oil for around 4 minutes, until it starts to smoke. Add shrimp and cook for a minute per side or until pink on both sides.

2. Add garlic, scallion and poke sauce to skillet, and stir. When sauce is reduced to around 1 teaspoon, remove from heat and add wine. Return to heat and stir until shrimp are coated and sauce is reduced to around 2 tablespoons. Serve with rice.

Nutrition facts per serving 288 calories, 9g fat (1.2g saturated), 24g carbohydrate, 26g protein, 0g fibre, 425mg sodium

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Haricots Verts With Macadamia Nuts
Serves: 4 
ACTIVE TIME: 10 MINUTES
TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES

> 900g haricots verts (thin green beans), cleaned and cut in half crosswise
> 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
> ½ medium Vidalia or sweet onion, julienned
> Kosher salt
> Freshly ground black pepper
> ¼ cup macadamia nuts, toasted and crushed

1. Blanch green beans in boiling water for 20 seconds, then shock them in an ice-water bath. Next, drain and set aside.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and stir continually for 7 to 10 minutes, until soft and translucent but not browned. If onion begins to brown, add a few tablespoons of water.

3. In a large bowl, toss green beans with remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add to skillet with onions and saute until lightly browned. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat, toss with macadamia nuts, and serve.

Nutrition facts per serving 198 calories, 14g fat (2.1g saturated), 19g carbohydrate, 5g protein, 7g fibre, 261mg sodium