A GLORIOUS HOMECOMING

During the recent Fall/Winter 2017/18 fashion show season (these industry events take place a season ahead), we were particularly interested in what Alessandro Sartori – who last showed his mettle by successfully introducing ready-to-wear at Berluti – would put forth in his first collection for Ermenegildo Zegna. The recently appointed creative director is no stranger to the Zegna family: From 2003 to 2011, he was the creative chief at the younger Z Zegna line.

In this debut outing, Sartori presented his vision for Ermenegildo Zegna. “Elegant informality” was a defining theme, with silhouettes that were “soft and active”. Think roomy trousers with cuff ed hems, topped with a thin turtleneck and a fluid blazer. He harnessed the brand’s expertise in fabric innovation: Ultra-light cashmere was used to make felted suits that were as comfy as loungewear; while treated calf leather gave jackets a weightless and papery feel.

Sartori is clearly looking to create a fresh, unifying coherence for the world’s largest menswear brand. Its latest campaign stars thespian Robert De Niro and young actor McCaul Lombardi.

The pairing reflects the challenge Ermenegildo Zegna’s new creative head faces: staying relevant to the traditional leanings of many of the brand’s existing clients, while reaching out to a new generation that never stands still.

Alessandro Michele’s brocade-like suits or sweaters embroidered with Donald Duck motifs may not be for everyone, but we are grateful to the creative designer for bringing maximalism back to a mainstream fashion scene that had become yawningly sedate. The new Gucci boutique at Ion Orchard reflects the creative director’s playful yet elaborate vision. Awash in colour and decorated with items such as vintage Oriental rugs and velvet armchairs, the nearly 6,000 sq ft store stocks a comprehensive collection of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, as well as its accessories. The store also houses the Gucci DIY service, which lets shoppers personalise selected products. #01-05 Ion Orchard.

The thing about each Brunello Cucinelli collection is that everything is always so wearable. It feels like you could simply fill up your closet with its whole range each season, and be sorted for the next six months. Taking inspiration from “the clear and vital spirit of summer”, the Italian cashmere specialist’s Spring/Summer 2017/18 collection ranges from lightweight knit polos and technical-fabric vests, to easy-wearing suits made from summery fabrics such as twill and poplin. The collection comes in a range of nature-inspired shades including beige and blue, as well as cherry and tomato reds.

When two cool brands come together to cross-pollinate ideas, the result is usually greater than the sum of its parts.

And so it is with the three-model collection of sunglasses created by luxury fashion house Berluti and American eyewear specialist Oliver Peoples. Timeless shapes have been given a distinctive twist through subtle handcrafted details. The Conduit Street model, for example, sees the classic aviator shape refined with a sleek single bridge with inlaid leather. The standout limited-edition piece, however, is the Sheldrake Leather – a pair of slightly rounded frames with a thinly layered leather front.