Rolex releases its most romantic watch in decades.
Rolex releases its most romantic watch in decades.
For a brand that has built its reputation on infallible tool watches, the dressy Cellini collection must have been a breath of fresh air for Rolex’s design team.
Since its overhaul in 2014, the manufacturer has taken its time to build the collection’s image of classicism and elegance, offering simple time-only watches that eventually included date and dual time models. Now, three years on, it’s taken a rather unexpectedly poetic leap into a complication that Rolex hasn’t made since the 1950s: The Moonphase.
Vintage Rolex enthusiasts may recognise some design characteristics from the Rolex 6062 “Stelline” and 8171 “Padellone”, both made in the 1950s and only for a brief period of time. What the three have in common are a round case, periphery date indicator and moonphase at 6 o’clock. But what the new Cellini Moonphase did was to bring all of these elements to the 21st century, with a few tricks thrown in.
The eye will first and foremost be drawn to the astronomical complication — not just because it’s so uncharacteristic of Rolex to make one, but also because it truly is stunning. Blue enamel sets the scene for the night sky, with a rhodium-plated disc of meteorite standing in for the full moon and an empty ring depicting the new moon. A small gold arrow at the top indicates the phase of the moon as the blue plate rotates, which is a design-driven move towards differentiation.
The moonphase will remain accurate for 122 years, and you can make an adjustment via a recessed pusher at 8 o’clock. The entire complication is encircled by two gold rings, which add subtle detail to an otherwise clean dial.
The Cellini Moonphase’s white lacquer dial is also covered in enamel, increasing the artistic value of the piece. A thin, centrally mounted crescent-tipped blue hand points to the date on the periphery, while the gold hands tell the time. All the indicators and numerals are clearly separated and defined, ensuring easy readability.
Needless to say, the movement is top-notch. The self-winding calibre 3195 is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification, meaning it will deviate only by -2/+2 seconds per day, and comes with a five-year warranty. It also utilises a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring (a patented Rolex innovation that guarantees extreme precision and stability) and beats at 4Hz, with a 48-hour power reserve.
The 39mm case, as well as the crown, hour markers and hands, are made of Rolex’s unfading 18k pink gold alloy, Everose gold. Like the rest of the nonbejewelled Cellini watches, it features a stepped bezel with a fluted lower edge and back, while a brown alligator strap with an adjustable concealed Crownclasp (also in Everose gold) will keep it on your wrist.
