More than just statements designed to be noticed, these complicated models are also emblems of exceptional engineering.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel
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At first glance, one would hardly think that there is anything that could be considered traditional about the Urwerk UR-105 “Raging Gold”. But there is – and it’s right there in its outsized bezel: a gold “shield” with an engraved pattern inspired by the classic hobnail motif. Elsewhere, it’s all cutting-edge modernity. The shield covers a black PVD-coated titanium case measuring 39.5mm (width) by 53mm (length) by 16.8mm ( height), and the watch features Urwerk’s signature wandering hours display
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When wild independent brand MB&F makes a car-inspired watch, it does not just slap a tachymeter scale on it. The design of the Horological Machine No.8 (HM8) Can-Am, shown here in red gold and titanium, is inspired by the Canadian-American Challenge Cup (Can-Am). Dual optical prisms vertically display bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes, and a large battle-axe rotor spins atop the watch. The top of the timepiece features gleaming rolling bars milled from blocks of Grade 5 titanium.
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The Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Sapphire has a power reserve of 50 days (yes, days) – thanks to a powerful engine that does justice to the Ferrari hybrid supercar after which it is named. Eleven series-coupled and centrally mounted mainspring barrels take pride of place at the centre of this tourbillon watch, off ering an exceptional energy store.
A fully transparent case crafted from sapphire gives owners (and onlookers) unparalleled views of this movement.
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A little dynamism goes a long way, which might explain why the constantly rotating tourbillon remains popular.
Off ering a diff erent way of keeping things moving, the Hautlence HL.4 features a vertical escapement (that’s the structure at the left) that rotates 60 degrees every hour. An hour-display chain is linked to the escapement, and advances at the top of every hour. A retrograde minutes scale adds to the dynamic qualities of this statement time-teller, which is housed in a 42mm-wide titanium case fronted by curved sapphire glass.
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With the H3, HYT breaks away from the curved form of the fluid-filled tubes that comprise its time display. Instead,
the capillary here takes a linear form, with the bright green fluid gradually travelling along the tube – indicating the hours against the display below it.
The hour display is no less inventive – it comprises a rotating dial with six cube-like structures, each with four faces. Housed in a PVD-coated titanium and platinum case, this manual-winding conversation-starter has a seven-day power reserve.
A. Lange & Sohne’s latest moonphase watch includes a 24-hour
sky disc.
A NOTCH ABOVE A. Lange & Sohne’s latest moonphase watch includes a 24-hour sky disc.
An unusual combination of indicators results in a highly original moonphase.
Over the years, the moonphase complication has got more accurate and/or more beautiful, but novel approaches to the lunar disc have been few and far between. So we’re excited to see A. Lange & Sohne step up to the challenge with its new Lange 1 Moon Phase.
On the surface, it looks like nothing much has changed, save for a slightly more starry moon disc. That’s where you’d be wrong, for the brand new Calibre L 121.3, based on the 2015 update to the Lange 1, has a surprising innovation: two discs hiding in one window. The disc carrying the moon continues to follow its phases throughout the month, but there is a 24-hour sky disc below it that rotates independently as well.
This means you will finally be able to view a moon against a brighter sky in the earlier hours of the day, thanks to the varying shades of blue on the disc.
This manually wound movement marks the watchmaker’s 20th calibre with a moonphase, and includes 47 jewels and eight gold chatons that contribute to its total of 438 parts. It has a power reserve of 72 hours, and is available in white gold, pink gold or platinum. If you want more in-depth views of this watch (and many others), follow the watchmaker’s newly launched Instagram account at
Regardless of your feelings towards sharks (terror, hunger or aff ection), there’s no denying they need our help to survive, so, if you want to do your part, consider picking up the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Sharks”. Inspired by the underwater works of photographer Michael Muller, published last year by Taschen, the special-edition stainless steel diving watch features a “shark” grey dial, an engraving on the back depicting hammerhead sharks, and the IWC Safedive system that ensures the internal bezel can be set only in an anti-clockwise direction so as to better monitor dive times. Part of the proceeds from the 500 pieces produced will go to the Charles Darwin Foundation.
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In any increasingly interconnected world, there’s always room for another world-time watch. New for 2017 is GirardPerregaux’s 1966 ww.tc. It combines the brand’s signature twin-crown world-time complication with its 1966 collection’s classically elegant aesthetic for the first time. Ww.tc watches are known for their user-friendliness, thanks to having one crown dedicated to the reference city and another to adjust the hours and minutes — and both can be set in either direction.
It is available in pink gold or steel.
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Despite numerous luxury watches being marketed for sports, few collectors would be comfortable wearing half a million dollars out on the courts. The comparatively more pocket-friendly Rado Hyperchrome Ultra Light, however, is ideal for activity, given how its high-tech ceramic case and aluminium bridges give it a total weight of just 64g, including the leather strap. The limited edition pictured here features a deep grey case and dial, date window at six o’clock and an automatic movement with a power reserve of 38 hours.