One of the world’s most iconic fragrances gets a fresh, modern makeover. JACLYN GUNASILAN reports from Grasse.
One of the world’s most iconic fragrances gets a fresh, modern makeover. JACLYN GUNASILAN reports from Grasse.
You know the phrase, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”? Well, according to French designer brand Chanel, even classics need a new spin every now and then. That's why it's launching a new interpretation of its No.5 scent. Arguably one of the brand’s most wellknown offerings and best-selling fragrances of all time, No.5 held its place as the world’s most iconic fragrance for 95 years. The scent has also been worn to bed by sex symbol Marilyn Monroe and has inspired artwork by pop art artist Andy Warhol. It all started back in 1921, when French fashion designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel commissioned perfumer Ernest Beaux to create a signature scent that “smells like a woman”. At that time, single-note scents were the norm and preference of most “respectable” women in society. Ernest, however, thumbed his nose at convention and concocted a scent with multiple notes, including May rose, bergamot, ylangylang, vanilla and aldehydes – synthetic compounds that add complexity to the scent and amplify the other notes in it. It was the first time that aldehydes had been used in such a large quantity in a fragrance, making it unlike anything consumers of that time had smelled before. Now, almost a century later, the brand is back with a new classic: No. 5 L’eau. According to its perfumer Olivier Polge, this is the freshest (and the fifth) iteration of the original No.5 Parfum. “The original perfume is so well known that we were afraid people would not smell [this new one] with a ‘fresh’ nose,” says Olivier during a press event in a chateau surrounded by beautiful rose fields in Grasse, France, where Chanel has sourced its May roses for decades.
Olivier made a few tweaks to the original scent to create the latest addition to the No.5 perfume family. First, he switched out the round and creamy notes, such as sandalwood and vanilla, for cedarwood to make the scent more dynamic. Then, he swopped the original ylang-ylang note for a greener version, for a fresher, more fluid appeal. He also chose mandarin, neroli and lemon as top notes to give the fragrance a sparkling quality. The result? A citrusy rose-and-white- floral bouquet. In many ways, it’s a scent most would never expect Chanel No.5 to be: light, airy and fresh. Although it smells “younger” in many ways – it’s no coincidence the brand chose 16-year-old model Lily-Rose Depp to front it – the scent retains the original’s old “soul”. Olivier made sure to include the key notes in the original scent, such as May rose and aldehydes. Much as I adore the glamour that surrounds the original No.5, I had always found it a bit too musky and mature for my taste. No.5 L’eau, on the other hand, is right up my alley. I love that I can wear it as an everyday scent without worrying that it’s too overpowering. Plus, its longevity is pretty impressive – it lasted an entire workday on well-moisturised skin. It’s definitely worth a sniff if you’ve never been a Chanel No.5 woman, but have always wanted to be one.
“THIS IS THE FRESHEST ITERATION OF THE ORIGINAL CHANEL NO. 5 PARFUM.” – OLIVIER POLGE
