The Maximum Silhouette

For a few seasons now, Marc Jacobs has demonstrated a penchant for power proportions.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

For a few seasons now, Marc Jacobs has demonstrated a penchant for power proportions. Whether it’s drawing inspiration from the greats like Claude Montana for his F/W ’18 collection or creating a “brotherhood of  grand shape” with the Japanese wunderkind Tomo Koizumi for the recent F/W ’19 collection, Jacobs  seems to be on a bout of bolder and bigger fashion by toying with volume and texture.

The American label’s creative consultant and confidante Katie Grand allegedly discovered Koizumi through Instagram. Impressed by his voluminous and vibrant polyester organza creations, Grand took on a fairy godmother role by orchestrating a fashion show for Koizumi right at Marc Jacobs Madison Avenue store. This symbiosis heralded a blossoming relationship for both designers. 

The lofty looks of Marc Jacobs F/W ’19 were much influenced by Koizumi’s signature “ruffle armour”. Jacobs constructed his from moulded organza flowers and feathers, then combined it with real feathers and beading. The fantastic confection was then completed by his now signature capes, while poofy party frocks came undergirded with crinolines. Now, that’s what we call fashion to the max. – VW 

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