The Anatomy Of A Blazer

It should always fit snugly behind your neck, no matter how formal or casual your blazer is.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

Wool blazer, $4,250, Celine

TOP COLLAR

It should always fit snugly behind your neck, no matter how formal or casual your blazer is.

SHOULDERS

One of the key factors that affects a blazer’s gravitas. A broader shoulder-padded one can help you appear more confident (and fashionable), while a lightly padded one that fits neatly at your shoulders looks more sleek and sophisticated.

LAPEL

This determines the formality. There are three types: peak, notched and shawl. Peak lapels (seen here) extend sideways beyond the collar, which emphasises the width of your shoulders. The most standard style, notched lapels are defined by the notch (the gap where the bottom of the collar and top of the lapel meet) and look best on a single-breasted suit. Tip: A slim lapel should have a small notch, while a wider lapel can have a larger notch. Shawl lapels have no pointed notches, and are designed for formal wear only (eg dinner jackets).

SLEEVE

If you want to look formal, the correct sleeve length should end right above the top of your wrist bone.

BUTTONS

Single-breasted blazers come with one, two or three buttons, while double-breasted pieces sport two, four or six buttons. In all cases, you should never fasten the lowest button – a common fashion faux pas – as it makes you look dated.

STYLE

The two most common styles: double-breasted (seen here) and single-breasted. The former is more refined and should be reserved for important events, while the latter has a slight casual twist and is good for your everyday workwear or to spice up a casual T-shirt + jeans combo on the weekends.

My Reading Room

Fashion blogger and style influencer Brittany Xavier adds some gravitas to her printed number with a sleek black blazer.

What to Consider When Getting a Bespoke Blazer

1. The purpose

“Always decide the purpose of the suit. Is it going to be for daily wear or as a statement piece? That will help us to decide which direction to work towards in terms of the design,” says Sheryl Yeo, 28, founder and director of 3Eighth, a local customisable brand that’s been adapting elements of menswear tailoring for women since 2018.

2. The details

“Every blazer may look similar, but it’s these little touches, like the width of the lapels, that make each piece unique and different,” says Yeo. “It can also add colour and texture, for instance, a velvet lapel in a contrasting hue.”

3. The fabric weight

“This determines how your blazer drapes and falls on your body. For instance, heavier tweeds give you a more formal look as they drape better than lightweight linens,” says Amanda Lin, 30, co-founder and managing director of Inventory, a four-year-old local label that provides bespoke services.

4. The comfort

“Don’t be too influenced by trends. Whether it is the fabric, colour or style, always choose something that you’re comfortable with so you’ll get more mileage out of it,” says Lin.

My Reading Room

1. Wool and silk blazer, US$2,141.54 (S$3,057.29), Alexander McQueen at Net-a-porter.com

2. Polyester blazer, $199, Mango

3. Polyester blazer, $89.90, Zara

4. Organic linen and lyocell blazer, $209, H&M Conscious Exclusive at H&M

5. Recycled polyester blazer, $99.90, Mango

6. Leather blazer, price unavailable, Prada

7. Polyester blazer, $3,490, Balenciaga

3Eighth is at #02-01, 66 Circular Road, www.3eighth.co. From $750 to $825

Inventory is at #07-06 PS100, 100 Peck Seah Street, www.inventory-co.com. From $790 to $2,800

COORDINATION SEAN THAM

PHOTOGRAPHY PHYLLICIA WANG

PHOTO OF BRITTANY XAVIER SHOWBIT

STYLING DEBBY KWONG