1 ALL THE WORLD’S A STAGE
Set in a circular auditorium in a regal shade of blue, Demna Gvasalia’s spring/summer 2020 collection for Balenciaga was a study in the archetypes of dress, with every slice of life represented—from blue-collar to blue blood. Continuing on the trajectory he set out a couple of seasons ago, he turned down the volume on tricks and gimmicks to focus instead on a comprehensive wardrobe, elevated by his masterful construction and exploration of shape. The show was populated by characters drawn from the real world, but heightened with that special brand of Gvasalia drama. First came the execs and office drones in boxy tailoring— complete with lanyard IDs. Their girlfriends wore dresses with brash prints of florals or consumerist symbols. Then there were menacing figures in long black leathers, party girls in body-con mini dresses, casuals in double denims and tracksuits, and finally, power players and one-percenters in statement coats and jewel-bright dresses taking up space with hugely exaggerated shoulders. Perhaps as a taste of what Gvasalia’s haute couture—debuting this July—would look like, the collection culminated in a series of sensational, supersized ballgowns. But even in high-drama mode, Gvasalia had one eye on reality—those ballooning volumes came with removable crinolines that allowed them to shape-shift into streamlined columns.
"Emporio Armani spring/ summer 2003, lensed by Peter Lindbergh"
2 PHOTO FINISH
A relationship that dates back to the 1980s has resulted in a rich body of collaborative work from Giorgio Armani and Peter Lindbergh. Now, the designer has teamed up with the Peter Lindbergh Foundation to present “Heimat. A Sense of Belonging”, a soulful exhibition of the late photographer’s work—some iconic and the stuff of fashion legend, others never before seen—at the Armani/Silos museum in Milan. Divided into three sections that are distinct but in dialogue, the images on show include both the photographer’s fashion work as well as his lesser-known portraiture, landscapes and still lifes. The exhibition, which takes its title from a German word that refers to a place where the hearts feels at home, will run until 2 August.
3 THE NEW LOOK
This season, Dior hits the refresh button, and gives its iconic Lady Dior bag a minimalist makeover and a new nomenclature. The Lady D-Lite retains the angular silhouette of its predecessor, but in this fresh iteration, the House’s signature Cannage quilting is remade in tactile 3D embroidery, with every element rendered tone-ontone in the brand’s distinctive cool dove grey. The bag can be personalised at select pop-ups in Paris, Milan, London, Dubai, Kuwait and Kuala Lumpur.
"The savoir faire behind the new Lady D-Lite, a fresh spin on the Lady Dior"
4 THE DEBUTANTE
Nicolas Ghesquière may excel at showy runway statements, but he also knows his way around a classic. Behold Louis Vuitton’s latest bag: the Pont 9, named after the Pont Neuf,the oldest and arguably most famous bridge in Paris— which happens to stand right across the brand’s storied headquarters. Though composed of strict, sleek lines, the Pont 9 has a tactile appeal thanks to the use of lightly padded calfskin. The bag is finished with an archival logo clasp unearthed from the 1930s and given a contemporary spin by Ghesquière.
Pont 9 shoulder bag, $4,900, Louis Vuitton
5 CHAIN REACTION
Glamour made a comeback for spring/summer 2020 and nothing says it better than the clink of a luxed-up chain. This season, the newness came from its oversize proportions— a departure from the delicate pieces we’ve seen before. This bold detail looks best when set against soothing neutral tones, as evidenced by Bottega Veneta’s nude mesh heels and Gucci’s geometric, retro shades.
Clockwise from far left: Bag, about $620, 16Arlington at Net-a-Porter. Glasses, $470, Gucci. Bracelet, $5,040, Chanel. Heels, $1,680, Bottega Veneta
6 ROAD TRIP REVERIE
When Moncler approached Rick Owens about a collaboration last year, the designer came back to it with a truly left-field proposition: Owens wanted Moncler to design a custom tour bus and fill it with one-off apparel for him and his partner, Michele Lamy. The couple would then take the bus on a road trip from Los Angeles to Nevada, ending at the ranch of land artist Michael Heizer. It was a homecoming of sorts as the American-born, Paris-based Owens has not been back to California since he decamped to the fashion capital almost two decades ago. After the trip, the bus was then displayed at the brand’s most recent Moncler Genius showcase during Milan Fashion Week, with both the vehicle and clothes available for purchase via special order.
Rick Owens and Michele Lamy in custom Moncler x Rick Owens on the open road
7 AGE OF REVOLUTION
Shockwaves reverberated through the industry when Prada announced that Miuccia Prada would be joining forces with Raf Simons as co-creative directors. Two designers of their stature teaming up on a brand of Prada’s scale is an unprecedented move—even last season’s Dries Van Noten and Christian Lacroix spectacle was just a one-off. Prada and Simons have much in common though— they both take an intellectual approach to fashion and then imbue it with emotion; they also share a passion for modern and contemporary art, as well as a penchant for starting trends and shaping the industry. Their first joint effort will be presented in September.
Clockwise from right: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Raf Simons spring/ summer 2020. Prada spring/ summer 2020
"JW Anderson x Uniqlo spring/summer 2020"
8 AN ENGLISH SUMMER
JW Anderson’s partnership with Uniqlo is back for the third year running. As with his previous outings for the Japanese apparel giant, Jonathan Anderson riffs on established British classics—this season with a countryside bent. For the first time ever, he expands the collection to include childrenswear. Expect to see plenty of gingham sundresses, pinstriped tunics, patchworked skirts and outdoorsy parkas—all in the easy fluid shapes that have become a JW Anderson signature.
"Pops of blue accent the mostly neutral palette of the store"
Loewe recently opened the doors of its first standalone store in New York, located on Greene Street in SoHo. Using mostly natural materials, the brand restored the building in the spirit of the storied neighbourhood. The space houses the full women’s and men’s universe as well as pieces from the growing Loewe collection of art, design and craft works, including a hand-painted screen by South African painter Lisa Brice, vintage photographs from Sri Lankan photographer Lionel Wendt and sculptures by New Zealand artist Kate Newby. There are also furniture and objects by several finalists of the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize.
"Art and design treasures fill the space"
BY JEFFREY YAN