THE ONES TO WATCH OUT FOR
Either fashion houses really love them, or these three names who hit show after show are going to make waves this year: LA pop rock band Haim – made up of sisters Este, Danielle and Alana Haim – was seen at (left column, from top) Dior, Valentino and Givenchy; British R&B chanteuse Jorja Smith popped up at (clockwise from top, middle) Gucci, Chanel (pictured with French trip hop duo Ibeyi), and Kenzo; while the all-black-wearing, electro-soul crooner Moses Sumney made his presence felt at (clockwise from bottom right) Chanel, Valentino and Kenzo.
THE ASIAN POP PRINCESSES (AND PRINCES)
Clockwise from far right: Kai of K-pop boy band exo at Gucci (don’t mess with his fans), American-Korean singer Krystal Jung at Salvatore Ferragamo, Taiwanese dance-pop diva Jolin Tsai (yes, Jolin Tsai) and singer/actor dylan Xiong at Gucci, CL at celine, and rose and Jisoo of Blackpink at Coach
THE INDIE CROWD
From left: Kanye-approved dream pop singer Kacy hill at Moschino, Berklee-trained synth-pop musician empress of at chloe, R&B’s new cool dude Khalid at calvin Klein 205W39NYC, French singers Soko and Jehnny Beth at Gucci, Juliette Lewis (yes, she sings) at Miu Miu, and Jared Leto (yes, he sings too) at Gucci
THE LEGENDS
Clockwise from bottom left: Primal Scream founder Bobby Gillespie (with The Kills’ Jamie Hince – sorta an indie rock legend – on left) at Celine; Red Hot Chili Peppers’ Anthony Kiedis at Moschino; the one and only Charlotte Gainsbourg and Sebastian – remixer for the likes of Daft Punk and the Beastie Boys – at Saint Laurent; Billyfreakin’-Idol (with China Chow) at Moschino; and Sebastien Tellier, another French electronica icon, at Chanel.
THE CHART-TOPPING DIVAS (AND ONE JONAS BROTHER)
Clockwise from left: Hailee Steinfeld and Cardi B at Tom Ford, Nicki Minaj at Marc Jacobs (chill, girl), Rita Ora at Versace, Selena Gomez at Coach, Joe Jonas at Louis Vuitton, Eve and Gwen Stefani at Moschino, and Lady Gaga at Celine
THE BONAFIDE FASHION ICONS
Clockwise from top: Alt-pop princess/style icon for the experimental Hypebae Billie Eilish at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, OG Fashion Week street style twins-turned-DJ duo Simi Haze (Google “Haya and Sama Abu Khadra”) at Tom Ford, and R&B singer Kelela – the refined alternative to FKA Twigs – at Chloe and Louis Vuitton
THE PERFORMANCES
Because after the (runway) show, it’s the after party – and sometimes, a surprise musical act midway adds to the vibes. Besides Jane Birkin standing up unannounced from her seat at Gucci to belt out Baby Alone in Babylone, New York label Telfar (top) enlisted rising names like Moses Sumney and Ian Isiah to sing an original composition by performance art duo Faka as models marched around. To cap their dramatic evening presentations, Hugo hired Wiz Khalifa to hit the stage of its techno club venue (middle), while Emporio Armani treated guests to a mini concert by Robbie Williams (bottom).
THE SOUNDTRACKS
The full listing of tunes that heightened the viewing experience at some of this season’s top shows.
JOHNNY JEWEL
Reach for the Beach (Synthgulls & Ocean)
GLASS CANDY
Naked City
DESIRE
Lately (Instrumental demo)
NIAGARA
L’Amour a La Plage
DESIRE
Tears From Heaven
CHLOE
Natacha Ramsay-Levi contrasted her hippie-inspired third collection for the brand with fast-tempo tracks such as iconic ’90s trance anthem The Age of Love, reflecting her modern, edgier vision of the Chloe bohemian.
PHILIP GLASS
Caught
THE AGE OF LOVE
Age of love
PHILIP GLASS
Train to Sao Paulo
BINARY
1998
SISTER NANCY
Bam Bam
LOUIS VUITTON
Nicolas Ghesquiere amplified his obsession with dressing for the future with pretty, floral adaptations of spacesuits, modified streetwear with what seems like prints of alien landscapes, and an aptly named track by regular collaborator Woodkid, featuring the honeyed vocals of Moses Sumney.
WOODKID FEATURING MOSES SUMNEY
Standing on the Horizon
CELINE
There was just one track: a rousing, custom-made 20-minute tune by French psych-punk band La Femme that underscored creative director Hedi Slimane’s edgy rock/synth-pop leanings.
LA FEMME
Runway
LOEWE
The brand’s runway show has become known for being an art experience under JW Anderson. To accompany his idiosyncratic brand of laidback luxury this S/S ’19:an energetic, minimalist piano number by the avantgarde Belgian composer Wim Mertens.
WIM MERTENS
Mains
GUCCI
With the collection inspired by theatre eccentrics, the playlist was naturally dramatic, including soaring tracks by opera legend MARIA CALLAS.
MARIA CALLAS & HERBERT VON KARAJAN
Orchestra of La Scala Milan
VERDI
Il Trovatore – D’Amor Sull’Ali Rosee
BERLINER PHILHARMONIKER & CLAUDIO ABBADO
Brahms: Symphony No. 3 in F, Op. 90: III. Poco Allegretto
DANNY BENSI & SAUNDER JURRIAANS
The Fuse
DANNY BENSI & SAUNDER JURRIAANS
Korea Town
JANE BIRKIN
Baby Alone in Babylone
JEAN COCTEAU & RAYMOND ROULEAU
La Difficulte d’Etre (Selections)
JEAN COCTEAU
Poemes (Selected from “Plainchant”)