For a long time, the idea of a cool suit for women meant borrowing from the boys.
For a long time, the idea of a cool suit for women meant borrowing from the boys. The iconic Le Smoking tux referenced 19th century men’s smoking jackets, while the oversized blazers and slouchy pants popularised by Phoebe Philo were heavily influenced by menswear. But in an era when feminism and inclusivity are raging buzzwords, it’s about time to rethink that concept – and many of fashion’s most celebrated labels are doing just that in S/S ’19. Givenchy, for example, paid tribute to the androgynous Swiss writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach with a mix of languid shirts, narrow jackets and low-hipped army pants (this page). Salvatore Ferragamo’s khaki-washed collection (opposite) is equally gender unbiased with safari shirts and coats, as well as roomy trousers, seen on both male and female models. The same goes for Celine: All suits that went down the runway are unisex. Now, the guys can borrow from us. – IJ
THE REAL FASHION INFLUENCER’S BAG: THE BAGUETTE
To understand the appeal of this pochette bag that’s returned to the S/S ’19 catwalk more than two decades after Fendi debuted it, one needs to know Sex and the City. It was the TV series that immortalised Sarah Jessica Parker’s sartorially adventurous character Carrie Bradshaw as a fashion icon, Baguette often in tow. And it put true style into street style: One oughta look glamorous even when hailing a cab (there was no Uber), and the bag – with its compact shape, short shoulder strap, double “F” logo and myriad statement finishes – made it perfect for doing so. In short, it was It in a pre-KOL age; when fashion influence was defined by attitude and a genuine, often idiosyncratic enthusiasm for dressing up. That it’s back in the social media age unchanged save for new reiterations, ranging from stamped calfskin to one swathed in beads and feathered flowers ($2,950-$9,600), says a lot about what – or who – it represents. Practice what Bradshaw said when robbed of hers in season three, episode 17: “It’s a Bag-uette.” – IJ
