Bad taste, some say, is an art form in itself. Yves saint laurent was inspired by it 46 years ago, creating his “scandal” showcase of tarted-up minidresses and coats that shocked the industry – and it became one of his most influential collections. Now, for s/s ’17, it’s the foundation of anthony vaccarello’s debut as creative director of saint laurent. Here, an exclusive backstage peek.
The nearly allblack collection features thighskimming skirts and dresses alongside reinterpretations of the brand’s signature tuxedo in a mix of leather, velvet and lace.
Vaccarello’s vision of the modern-day Saint Laurent woman: one who references ’80s styles and makes them her own – plenty of high gloss vinyl included.
Vaccarello on bad taste: “I think that even Yves Saint Laurent – even if (his clothes) became bourgeoisie in the end – didn’t like the idea of good taste… There has to be a twist. You can be chic with the wrong pair of shoes, or the wrong lipstick. To see the failure of the woman – that’s chic.”
Vaccarello’s starting point: a dress with exaggerated sleeves from the archives. How he’s updated it: by pushing down the sleeves, then attaching them to bustiers and completely seethrough lace bodices for a look that’s at once sophisticated and subversive.
Like in Yves Saint Laurent’s 1972 “Scandal” collection, plunging necklines up the sex appeal of minidresses, like this brazenly retro glam gold lame number.
PHOTOGRAPHY SASKIA LAWAKS.