Geoffrey Hawkins

Aveda’s vice president of research and development on how hair health stems from the scalp.

“We consider the effect of our products not only on hair and skin, but on body, mind and the emotions”

With a head of peppered greys, moustache and white lab coat, Geoffrey Hawkins, Aveda’s vice president of research and development is perhaps the perfect person to discuss the brand’s latest discovery – scalp care – which he says is frequently ignored in dialogues about healthy hair.

“Hair is just an appendage of skin. What you don’t see is the living part, which means early care, prevention and protection are essential to healthy hair,” says Hawkins. “Consumers often wrongly assume hair is dead and they can’t do anything to it, not realising it’s just the tip of the iceberg. Sure, shampoo removes the grime and pollution that dull your hair and conditioner changes the frictional property of the strands, but for actual well-being, you need to tackle the scalp.”

With this in mind, Aveda created the Pramāsana collection, which mimics skincare for the face by removing sebum from the glands. Unlike skincare however, it takes an extra step in keeping the follicles in good shape while tackling microbiomes and anti-oxygen agents.

First, a flexible, looped bristle scalp brush is massaged onto the skin to loosen impurities that build up on the scalp, and to increase microcirculation. Then, a 97 per cent naturally derived cleanser is applied to invigorate and refresh. Hawkins emphasises that shampoo should be as mild as face wash. Finally, a lightweight scalp concentrate acts nourishes and preserves the scalp’s protective barrier while shielding it from pollution and other free radicals.

Inspired by Ayurveda, the collection is a portmanteau of the Sanskrit words prama (which means foundation) and asana (a yoga position), and the result of a three-year study. The unisex, fragrance-free formula is made with seaweed extract to control and balance sebum levels; lactobacillus, a patented ferment to preserve the scalp’s natural protective barrier; and tamanu oil, an antioxidant that defends against external aggressors.

Home kits are suitable for all skin types. Hawkins says the condition of the scalp is similar to that of the face, and can be used prior to shampooing, while the Pramāsana salon treatment is recommended every other month for the most effective cell turnover.

“We have to remember that factors like stress, dirt and debris from the ozone affect not just our hair, but also directly our scalp, which communicate with the strands through cellular response. This means even if you use the best shampoo and conditioner, an unhealthy scalp will still result in unhealthy hair,” says Hawkins.

Ensuring the efficacy of potent plants from their original sources remains Hawkin’s most significant professional challenge. “When developing a new product, the efficacy and end benefit are first and foremost. Our consumers expect products that work,” he says. “Pramāsana, for example, sources ingredients from the South of France, Pacific Islands and Brazil – it really depends what works the best to achieve what we want. Aveda is unique in that we take a holistic approach to beauty. We consider the effect of our products not only on hair and skin, but on body, mind and the emotions, and therefore develop high-performance products using naturally derived ingredients.” www.aveda.com