There’s more to Brazil than Rio de Janeiro and (sometimes exaggerated) reports of crime. TAN MIN YAN explores three distinctively different facades of the South American nation, and finds much to love.
There’s more to Brazil than Rio de Janeiro and (sometimes exaggerated) reports of crime. TAN MIN YAN explores three distinctively different facades of the South American nation, and finds much to love.
RIO DE JANEIRO
SPEND: THREE DAYS
How can one visit Brazil without setting aside a few days for the Cidade Maravilhosa, or Marvellous City, as Rio de Janeiro is affectionately known? Unsavoury (and sometimes exaggerated) reports of crime and unrest in the lead-up to the Olympics may have marred its reputation, but the postcard-perfect city of endless stretches of golden beaches and rolling mountains, pulsing music and joie de vivre is worth making time for. Food is one of Rio’s highlights. The city’s melting pot of African and European influences is well represented by the hundreds of vendors and bars touting snacks like empanadas (crispy filled pastries), sweet or savoury pipoca (popcorn), and coxinhas (doughcovered shredded chicken). In the last decade, well-heeled cariocas (residents of Rio) and tourists have also developed a taste for more refined food, resulting in elegant restaurants with international influences and impressive ambiences mushrooming up all over the city.
Restaurante Aprazivel (www.aprazivel.com.br), on the edge of a cliff high up on the winding hill of the bohemian Santa Teresa neighbourhood, is a fine example. The lush treehouse-style restaurant overlooks Guanabara Bay and serves predominantly modern Brazilian food – lots of fish and meats, with a focus on the use of organic produce from the country. Dine here after dark and you’ll be treated to a breathtaking view of the twinkling lights of the city.
Rubaiyat Rio (www.rubaiyat.com.br), a steakhouse in the Equestrian Club at the racecourse, has a lovely view of the Christ the Redeemer statue in the distance. Its meat-heavy menu highlights signatures like Kobe beef and lamb chops, and a wine selection of some 5,000 labels.
Lasai (www.lasai.com.br), on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, is housed in a refurbished historic building. Rio-born chef Rafa Costa e Silva showcases Basque Countryinspired cuisine prepared using local ingredients and modern techniques. What’s served depends on what the kitchen can procure. When I visited, I had local fish with green papaya and sourcream emulsion, as well as a deconstructed lemongrass panna cotta with pineapple.
STAY AT:
Ritz Copacabana (www.ritzcopacabana.com.br) The hotel, which just opened in August this year, looks like your standard business hotel – minimalist, quiet and very comfortable – with one major difference: its superb location just one block away from Copacabana Beach and all its touristy spoils. Wake up early and head for the rooftop pool on the 16th floor, where you’ll get a spectacular, unobstructed view of the glowing sunrise over the sparkling blues of the ocean. Room rates start at R$368 (S$157) a night.
BUCKET-LIST ITEMS TO CHECK OFF
Christ the Redeemer: The 38m-tall statue, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, is awe-inspiring even if you’re not religious. Remember to book an official van from the Tijuca National Park as no other public transport options take you all the way up Corcovado. Go as early as possible (the park opens at 8am), before the crowds come in.
Sugarloaf Mountain: From the top, the 360-degree view of Rio and the surrounding Atlantic Ocean is worth braving tourist hordes for. Two cable car rides take visitors from the base of the hill to 220m above sea level. It gets blazing hot at the top at midday, so slather on the sunblock and slip on your sunnies.
Copacabana Beach/ Ipanema Beach: Soak up some of that famed Brazilian beach culture (and ogle the shirtless male volleyball players) at Copacabana, but stick to the lively kiosks and populated areas for safety. If you’re looking to bake in the sun, Ipanema, with its cleaner sands and waters, is the preferred option.
Escadaria Selaron: The famed 215-step stairway is Chilean-born artist Jorge Selaron’s canvas for thousands of vividly coloured mosaics, collected from more than 60 countries. His labour of love, dedicated to the people of Brazil, is great for a photo op from the bottom of the stairway – though you’ll have to jostle with lots of visitors.
BOOK WITH:
Tatur Turismo (www.tatur.com.br) Salvador isn’t the easiest city to navigate without a working Portuguese vocabulary and a car, so it’s best to book a tour with a reputable agency. Tatur Turismo organises customised tours throughout the state of Bahia. My full-day city tour, facilitated by a knowledgeable local guide and a driver, was comfortable and informative.
STAY AT:
Pestana Convento do Carmo (www.pestana.com/en/hotel/ pestana-convento-do-carmo) The thought of staying in what used to be a convent can be a little unnerving at first, especially when you walk through the slightly musty corridors and quiet cloisters. But this is Salvador’s first luxury hotel, and all the rooms, even though they’re a little sparse, are still equipped with the essential creature comforts. From R$344 a night.
SALVADOR
MUST-VISIT: PELOURINHO SQUARE
MUST-VISIT: BONFIM CHURCH
IGUAZU FALLS
BOOK WITH:
Iguassu Experiences You can visit both parks on your own without a guide, but booking one means that you will be chauffeured across the border, and won’t have to worry about passport and visa issues. An additional bonus: Booking a tour of the Iguacu National Park allows you to explore the entire trail before it opens to the public – great for photos. The Iguassu Experiences office is located at the lobby of the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas on the Brazilian side.
STAY AT:
Belmond Hotel das Cataratas (www.belmond.com/hotel-das-cataratasiguassu-falls) Staying here is a bit of a splurge (room rates start at R$1,380 a night). But factor in the convenience of being in the only hotel situated right in the Iguacu National Park, and the thrill of being within walking distance of the spectacular falls, and it’s quite a bargain. It also houses excellent restaurants that serve international breakfasts and traditional moqueca (seafood stew) with equal finesse.
