One of modern watchmaking ’s favourite colours distinguishes the latest pieces from a company synonymous with traditional values.
01. DIALLING IT UP
One of modern watchmaking ’s favourite colours distinguishes the latest pieces from a company synonymous with traditional values.
In fields such as fashion, blue is considered a relatively basic colour. In the largely conservative world of high watchmaking, however, the hue of sky and sea is striking enough to still be the theme of watch spreads or trend features. And now, the colour unifies five of the latest offerings from Saxon watch brand A. Lange & Sohne.
Firstly, there’s the sixth model in the brand’s elaborately hand-finished Handwerkskunst range: Winner in the Grand Complications category of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) when it was first introduced in 2013, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar has been given an extensive makeover. Housed in a 41.9mm white gold case, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst (below, left) features a dial and hinged caseback – both made from white gold and finished with blue enamel. These two parts are also relief-engraved: stars form a celestial backdrop on the dial, while the Roman moon goddess Luna enlivens the caseback.
On a more accessible note, Lange has also released blue-dial editions of four models in its regular catalogue: Lange 1, Lange 1 Daymatic, Saxonia and Saxonia Automatic. Paired with white gold cases, these new models give fans of the conservative brand the chance to go a little wild.
BLUE PERIOD
(from top) The latest Lange 1, Saxonia, Lange 1 Daymatic and Saxonia Automatic are united by their dial colour.
02. URBAN INSPIRATION
Following the reversible UR-T8 presented earlier this year, Urwerk continues its 20th-anniversary celebrations with another far-out design. The UR-105 CT Streamliner pays tribute to New York, where Urwerk co- founder Martin Frei made his home two decades ago. Taking visual cues from the Art Deco accents of the Empire State and Chrysler buildings, the Streamliner features a hinged upper case that can be opened to reveal the openwork carousel holding the brand’s signature wandering-hour display. Available in titanium and steel; or in titanium and PVD -coated steel.
03. DESIRABLE DESIGN
Last year, LVMH chief Jean-Claude Biver told us about his ambitions for watch brand Zenith: “It’s considered nice, beautiful and of good quality. But I want it to also have sex appeal.” He and his team seem to be on the right track with the Zenith Defy Lab, which has been making horological headlines with its ZO 342 calibre – distinguished by an etched, single- piece silicon wafer that replaces and does the job of the traditional balance-and-spring regulating assembly. This feature, apparently, gives the watch an exceptional accuracy, with a daily maximum deviation of 0.3 seconds a day. Almost as interesting is its case made from Aeronith, an aluminium composite that’s even lighter than carbon fibre. The first 10 pieces have been pre-sold to collectors, but serial production of these watches won’t be far off.
04. RISING TIDE
In 2015, Chopard unveiled the Chronometre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1, the first timepiece created under its new Ferdinand Berthoud brand – which takes its name from an 18th-century master watchmaker. The octagonal watch, which features aesthetic and technical details inspired by traditional marine chronometers, went on to win the top Aiguille d’Or prize at the GPHG in 2016. First released in white or rose gold, Ferdinand Berthoud now releases version 1.3 in platinum. Only 50 pieces of this covetable timepiece will be made.
ALL IN THE FAMILY
Long-time Omega ambassador Cindy Crawford’s genes live on in the brand after it signed on her children, models and siblings Kaia and Presley Gerber, to do the same job.
