Discover the charm of nature and history through the country’s oldest tradition
Discover the charm of nature and history through the country’s oldest tradition
One of the best ways to experience the tiny teardrop-shaped island off India’s southern tip is through the magic of tea. Ever since British tea planter James Taylor sowed 19 acres of tea at Loolecondera Estate in the central Ceylon tea hills in 1866, establishing the Ceylon tea industry, the island has been known for quality, brisk and bold black teas. Venture into a tea circuit that takes you from the capital into the hills, and then to the gorgeous south before heading back.
“Though enjoyed from medicinal and spiritual purposes in its native China and other parts of Asia, tea in Sri Lanka is a colonial-era influenced social gathering, served with milk and a local unrefined coconut sugar called jaggery,” says Sarah Scarborough, founder of Firepot Nomadic Teas and author of Nomadic Tea Party.
“Long before tea came to the island, however, the Sinalese (the original Sri Lankan descendants from southern India) used their island’s rich herbal diversity to create their own natural system of medicine called Ayurveda,” adds Scarborough. “Developing infusions, powders and poultices from potent native herbs since 400 BC, the island’s botanical legacy is rooted in ancient times.”
THE CAPITAL
Colombo has emerged as a new port destination, particularly with the 2017 opening of a Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts property. Located between the Galle Face Green promenade and Beira Lake, the property has gorgeous uninterrupted views of the Indian Ocean and world-class dining options. But the capital is also home to the country’s contemporary dining scene with new hot restaurants opening monthly. It’s a gorgeous city with beautiful colonial-style buildings. But to get a real feel of the country, head to the Sri Lankan countryside.
TEA COUNTRY
You can either hire a driver to take you inland to the cultural centre of the country Kandy, or hop on a quick Cinnamon Air floatplane to Kandy Reservoir. You land and the greenery is what strikes you at first, lush remote lands the way the world used to be. The Ayurvedic spice gardens are aplenty in this area which is also home to the island’s first tea garden. While here, pick up ashwagandha for peaceful sleep, vitality and to relieve stress or jet lag, Ceylon cinnamon oil leg rub to soothe sore muscles or Neelyadi Thailaya for headaches and healthy hair, suggests Scarborough.
TAYLORS HILL
An hour south of the Kandy Reservoir, the hotel is named after tea hero James Taylor. This tiny boutique hotel built on a tea plantation sits adjacent to Loolecondera Estate is Sri Lanka’s original tea garden. Forget the world and just enjoy afternoon tea (and champagne if you’re so inclined) amongst the greenery. Opting for early morning yoga at the pool as the mists rise over the valleys and the sprawling hills is how I believe every morning should start. Follow your yoga session with an in-room massage with oils infused with teas from the plantation.
http://www.taylorshillkandy.com
CEYLON TEA TRAILS
Resplendent Ceylon, part of Relais & Chateaux, has a circuit around the tea hills with a few properties to rest your head. The first, Tientsin Bungalow is just south of Kandy. Make sure to book in time with their resident tea planter to walk around jungled trails and tea-blanketed hills and explore the age-old tea-making process from beginning to end. Pick tea and learn about the conversion from green to black tea. The British-designed machinery is an artisanal piece more than 100 years old. Their spa selection is of course tea based. Think green tea massages followed by tea-infused cuisine, including the curries. And when night falls, retreat to the owner’s personal suite, the Stewart Suite, with a fireplace lit at turndown. Spend a morning enjoying colonial delights such as high tea and croquet on the lawn, darling. Then it’s time to head south.
http://www.resplendentceylon.com
CAPE WELIGAMA
Situated on palm-fringed shores east of Galle, this Lek Bunnag designed property with just 39 private retreats is sprawled across 12 manicured acres with quintessential Sri Lankan views across the ocean. Make sure you’re in one of the 14 pools around the property when the sun dips down – it’s breathtaking. For what they call the ultimate Ceylonese indulgence – therapists will come to your villa for a spa day. Think Sri Lanka spice rubs made from clove, nutmeg, sandalwood and sweet orange.
http://www.resplendentceylon.com
HERITANCE TEA FACTORY
Nuwara Eliya is worth exploring, as Sri Lanka’s high grown and highest-quality tea region. This region produces light-liquoring, aromatic teas. Drive through tea fields and take in breathtaking views of the lush Ceylon tea country. The Heritance Tea Factory is a renovated tea factory surrounded by gardens and a perfect hotel for a night spent in huge beds. The spa has a special Indian oil treatment that combines massage and oil therapy for the ultimate detox.
http://www.heritancehotels.com
THE SOUTH
After all that tea rejuvenation, it is time for yoga and fresh ocean air. Start on the eastern side and make your way back to Colombo, the finest way to see the coast.
CHENA HUTS
Part of the Uga Escapes, this beach property is nestled between dunes and trees. The best part is the easy access to some of nature’s most beautiful treats – from sea turtles laying eggs by moonlight, to elephants wandering around the reserves. The private pavilions with views across this wilderness are understated and feel like a heavenly remote escape. The best place for dinner is at the bonfire on the beach. But don’t forget to first book some spa time – body treatments and massages in your little beach hut couldn’t be more perfect.
AMANWELLA
The Aman resort along the southern coast is where I stop for complete restoration. It’s the most peaceful part of the coastline with long beaches, forever sunsets and unspoilt nature all around. One of the highlights is the Mulgirigala rock temple set on a butte rising from the forest floor. It’s here where I find some time for meditation and a quiet moment to contemplate the world of tea and the universality of the drink. From American ice teas, to the Pu-er of China, the herbal teas of Africa and South America, the intricate art of tea is cherished the world over, particularly in Japan, Russia and England.
REEF VILLA & SPA
This property, just outside Colombo, has the romance of Colonial design with access to temples and moonstone mines. The old- school ocean suites have four-poster beds and verandas for private dining. Explore the artifacts and art displayed around the property before laying by the pool. Afterwards, indulge in afternoon tea or a cocktail at the traditional Ceylon style Plantation House, the epitome of old world charm. Bury your nose in a book, or simply admire the soothing surroundings of its open terraces, water gardens and lily ponds.
