Cut Above The Rest

The Weekly takes you on an exploration into the world of tailoring. Just follow suit.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

The Weekly takes you on an exploration into the world of tailoring. Just follow suit.

Jacket Of All Trades

The blazer is the go-everywhere, do-everything closet must-have that every woman needs. To demonstrate this point, here are eight simple pieces you can employ to restyle the humble grey jacket.

Jacket, $149.90, from Uniqlo x Ines de la Fressange.

1 POWER LUNCH

Bag, $3,170, from Chloé

2 MID-WEEK COCKTAILS

Bracelet, $280, from Monica Vinader.

3 GIRLS’ NIGHT OUT

Watch, $549, from Thomas Sabo.

4 CLIENT PITCH

Skirt, $119.95, from SEED Heritage.

5 DATE NIGHT

Orseund Iris blouse, $576, from NET-APORTER.

6 CASUAL FRIDAYS

Earrings from Mango.

7 AFTERNOON HIGH TEA

Jeans, $370, from Maje.

8 MANAGEMENT MEETING

Shoes, $670, from Tory Burch.

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Substance Over Style

Learn about the pros and cons of commonly-used tailoring materials

WOOL

What: A frequently-used material in the world of tailoring, wool fabrics come in a range of weights and quality grades.

Pros: It’s very resilient, and can retain its shape with proper care. It also has anti-odour properties.

Cons: Wool is an insulator of heat, so you’ll feel hot in it pretty quickly.

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WOOL BLENDS

What: Wool blends essentially meld natural wool together with man-made materials, and it costs less.

Pros: They are better at moisture-wicking, and will help keep your skin feeling cool and dry.  

Cons: The fabric doesn’t breathe well, and can sometimes have an unattractive sheen.

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BOUCLE

What: Don’t mix this up with tweed boucle, as not all boucles are made of tweed. Boucle actually refers to a spun fabric of any type of fibre.

Pros: Because it’s woven in a looser format, boucle allows for air to ventilate better.  

Cons: Caring for boucle is tricky, and some may find it troublesome.

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LINEN

What: Derived from plants, linen is a great suit material for our weather as it has a summery feel and particular properties that keep your body cool.

Pros: Linen ranks highly in strength and durability, and can be easily laundered without fuss.

Cons: When washed with hard water, linen can look disheveled and worn after a few laundry cycles.

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From clockwise: Hermès; Carolina Herrera skirt, $551, from THE OUTNET; Rochas

Pencil This Down

For a pencil skirt that fits perfectly, these are the key things you should take note of.

(From top pointing line to bottom)

Tip #1

A wider waistband is more flattering, because it cinches you in and creates a curvier silhouette.

Tip #2

Look out for a pencil skirt with front darts, as it’s likely to fit your body shape better.

Tip #3

A slit – whether in the back or front – is a key feature in a good pencil skirt as it helps facilitate movement.

Tip #4

As a general rule, opting for a belowthe-knee hemline keeps your pencil skirt corporatefriendly.

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Ermanno Scervino

Single Vs Double

So what are the differences between single- and double-breasted jackets?

THE SINGLE

Single column of buttons, with usually between one and three buttons.

94 percent of suits use single-breasted fronts, so you won't stick out.

More conservative, which makes it suitable to be worn every day.

Allows you to play with more cuts, details and types of lapels.

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Givenchy

THE DOUBLE

Two columns of buttons.

Given that double-breasted jackets are less common, wearing one will get you more attention.

Tends to appear dressier, hence better reserved for formal events.

Helps create broader shoulders and a slimmer-looking waist, especially when cinched with a belt.

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The Shape Of You

The great thing about tailoring is that you get to decide what type of cuts you’d like your pieces to have. Learn how to make the right decisions for your body shape with our handy guide.

From left to right:

HOURGLASS

Play up your curves with a double-breasted jacket. Jacket from DKNY.

Straight-leg cuts gives you longer-looking gams. Pants, $64.95, from H&M.

Pointed flats exude an air of timeless elegance. Shoes, $63.90, from Pedro.

RECTANGLE

Cinching your waist creates the illusion of curves. Jacket from Aje.

Pleated trousers help create balance to your figure. Pants, $149.95, from SEED Heritage.

Mules keep you looking smart for those important meetings. Shoes from Malone Souliers.

ROUND

Lapel details flatter your shape by drawing a vertical line. Jacket, $415, from Maje.

Slim-fitted pants eliminate unnecessary bulk. Pants, $480, from Sandro.

Burgundy slingbacks can go from boardroom to bar counter. Shoes, $53.90, from Charles & Keith.

TRIANGLE

Defined shoulders compliment your shape. Jacket from Mango.

The higher the waist, the longer your legs look. Pants, $89.90, from Mango.

Keep grounded in a pair of low-heeled mules. Rejina Pyo shoes, $475, from Pedder on Scotts.

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Your Tailoring Black Book

Ready to make the plunge? These three tailoring experts are here to help.

3EIGHTH

When the brand’s dream is to “put every girl in a suit”, you know that you’re in safe hands. 3EIGHTH breathes time-heralded techniques into modern fabrics and cuts.

3eight.co

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MADE SUITS

Packing plenty of panache into their suits, you’ll get to pick from a huge selection of cloths at very friendly price points friendly, so you can get more than one item tailored.

made-suits.com

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Q MENSWEAR

Q Menswear doesn’t just cater to the men. Their sharp tailoring methods extend to female customers too, and their helpful team of experts stay on-hand to guide you through every step.

q-menswear.com

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Meet The Three Fs

When it comes to tailoring – no matter what you’re cutting or for whom a garment is made for – there are three basic rules to remember:

1 FIT: Needless to say, fit is a critical part about tailoring. When you’re getting something made for you, it needs to fit comfortably. With most tailors, you’ll be fitted into a “trial” piece in a process called basted fittings. Use this chance to walk, sit, run or jump, so you have an idea on how your final piece will feel, and what changes should be made. 

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2 FUNCTION: Obviously, wouldn’t want to let your newly-made item gather dust in your closet. To ensure you get the most wear out of your dollar, consider your lifestyle habits and how this clothing article can serve it. Should it be smart casual, or business formal? How many pockets do you want? What about buttons – dressier or subtler versions?

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3 FABRIC: Fabrics don’t just set the final price you’ll be paying, it also plays a key part in your satisfaction with the finished product. Before deciding on a material, ask yourself if it’s suitable for the climate, what you’ll be wearing it to, and how tedious the care process is.

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A pair of midwash denim jeans looks extra stylish.

Crack The Code

Take your cue from these celebs and nail the dress code every single time.

CASUAL CHARM

You can’t go wrong with a printed tee, comfy kicks and statement jewellery.

Clockwise from right:

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.

Necklace, $1,087, from APM Monaco.

Jeans, $60, from ASOS. 

Shoes, $79.90, from Mango.

Jacket, $625, from Maje.

T-shirt, $140, from Bimba Y Lola.

Sunglasses, $273, from JP John Pan.

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This slouchy hobo promises to hold all your essentials.

BUSINESS AS USUAL

A sharp suit and polished accessories are the safest route to take.

Clockwise from right:

Olivia Wilde

Necklace, $39.90, from Mango.

Jacket, $69.90, from Zara.

Rupert Sanderson shoes, $528, from Pedder on Scotts.

Pants, $69.90, from Zara.

Bag, $1,770, from Tory Burch.

Scarf, $24.95, from H&M.

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Break up the monotony with a sensual burgundy lip colour.

NIGHT AS DAY

Plush velvet textures and plenty of sparkle guarantee you a night to remember.

Clockwise form right:

Olivia Palermo

Raey jacket, $410, from Matches Fashion.

Shoes, $400, from Bimba Y Lola.

Pants from Pinko.

Bag, $2,331, from Jimmy Choo.

Laneige Silk Intense Lipstick 360 in Bloody Burgundy Sizzle, $36.

PHOTOS: 123RF.COM, TPG NEWS, SHOWBIT

INSTAGRAM: @ANNIECHUA, @ASSEMBLESG, @MADESUITS, @3EIGHTH