A full-on red suit, paired with a red shirt, and complete with retro-futuristic large, squarish sunglasses and black leather accessories – this was one of the ways in which Dior Homme designer Kris van Assche was proposing to remake the suit for a younger generation.
It all sounds very forward-looking, but make no mistake: That blazing scarlet actually takes inspiration from a shade the late Christian Dior named “Red Scream” for his first runway show in 1947.
At Versace, creative director Donatella Versace was more sombre than usual, toning down the larger-than-life campy masculinity that usually characterises her shows. Instead of the usual hulking beefcakes in, say, pastel leather, there were more normal-sized models sporting tailored pieces in shades of black and camel. But Donatella, and Versace itself, would not be what they are without a splash of flash, and that’s where the bold reds – in a full look or leather trench, or as part of an oversized checked pattern – came in.