Fashion Change-Makers

They might not be household names, but these multi-hyphenate women are impacting how we consume fashion behind the scenes. Here’s why you should add them to your follow list.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

They might not be household names, but these multi-hyphenate women are impacting how we consume fashion behind the scenes. Here’s why you should add them to your follow list.

CHRISTINE CENTENERA 

@christinecentenera

Celebs and influencers may come out tops in the race for more followers, but who are the ones really exerting an influence on the course of fashion? These power players are planning campaigns, shaping collections, dressing other powerful women, and guiding designers with their visionary insight and personal style. Here are three dynamic women who are defining what’s cool in today’s fashion climate.

WHO SHE IS: The Vogue Australia fashion director is a stylist to the stars (notable clients include Victoria Beckham, Cate Blanchett and Gisele Bundchen). She’s also the co-founder of Wardrobe.NYC with her ex-boyfriend, Australian designer Josh Goot – the pair work together to this day. The brand releases elevated basics, mostly in black and white.

HER STYLE: Her polished, moody uniform consists of statement-making coats, her trademark tousled hair and stylist sunglasses. It also shows in Wardrobe. NYC. Think well-tailored blazers, relaxed-fit trousers, luxurious yet plain T-shirts, and structured coats. The brand has only produced three collections since 2017, rebelling against fashion’s usual practice of multiple collections each year.

WHY KNOW HER: She was famously tapped by Virgil Abloh to consult for his Louis Vuitton men’s collections. And she’s been collaborating with Kanye West for his brand, Yeezy, since its inception (Abloh was Yeezy’s previous creative director). Centenera is also roving around the Kardashians’ circle, and is touted to be responsible for Kim Kardashian’s edgy, high-fashion makeover.

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YOON AHN

@yoon_ambush

WHO SHE IS: Popularly known as “Yoon Ambush”, the ultra-trendy Korean-American designer co-founded cult jewellery brand Ambush in 2008 with her husband, Japanese rapper Verbal. The duo quickly found themselves at the top of the hip-hop and fashion worlds courtesy of Ambush’s hip street-style aesthetic. The self-taught designer is enjoying her own moment in the spotlight as Dior Men’s jewellery director under the artistic direction of Kim Jones.

HER STYLE: Everyday objects pumped up with a dose of Jeff Koons-esque kitschy treatments and exaggerated proportions. For example: chrome surfboards, crushed-can clutches, gold-plated name-card brooches, and padlock earrings. Fans include Rihanna, Kate Moss and Nicki Minaj as well as Kanye West. 

WHY KNOW HER: At Dior Men, she disrupts the traditional men’s jewellery lexicon by creating collectible objects of art. Ahn’s talents truly shone at Dior Men’s Pre-Fall 2019 show staged in Tokyo. Inspired by the legendary Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama, she designed intricate robotic gloves and armour-like rings adapted from Sorayama’s 1983 book, Sexy Robot – it’s the stuff of the future.

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SUZANNE KOLLER

@suzannekoller

WHO SHE IS: The Paris-based art director and mega stylist co-founded Petronio Associates in 1993 with ex-husband Ezra Petronio. The creative agency counts Prada, Chloe, Miu Miu, Saint Laurent, and Chanel among its clients. The duo also founded Self Service Magazine, a fashion and cultural biannual held in high regard by industry insiders. And she’s the fashion director of the cutting-edge Parisian newspaper supplement M Le Magazine du Monde.

HER STYLE: You can spot her signature look a mile away – Phoebe Philo-era Celine plus Chanel staples, all in beige and topped with red nails. Tres French chic.

WHY KNOW HER: As one of the world’s top tastemakers, Koller’s street cred is unrivalled. Many images she has styled are modern classics: Recall her black-and-white spread with lensman Karim Sadli. And she champions new talent, including women photographers Harley Weir and Bibi Cornejo Borthwick. She also styles and does consults for ad campaigns by top brands, from Givenchy to Lacoste. Her magic touch is not only for the luxury market: She recently worked with fast-fashion juggernaut Zara, and released a capsule collection for Fall 2019 with French retailer A.P.C. that personifies her Parisian-cool signature style.

PHOTO OF CHRISTINE CENTENERA & YOON AHN SHOWBIT.COM

PHOTO OF SUZANNE KOLLER INSTAGRAM/@SUZANNEKOLLER