If Clare Waight Keller’s debut ready towear collection for Givenchy has been singled out for erring too much on the safe side, then her first haute couture outing for the House—poetic, beautiful and nuanced in its expression of femininity and romanticism—proved she has got more tricks up her sleeves.
Inspired by the mysteries waiting to be discovered in a garden at night, Waight Keller captured the imagination with a parade of tailored evening wear (she did three men’s looks too) that evoked the silvery light of the moon. Dresses came in a myriad of night hues (black, white and blue lent a sense of calm), while a latex coat teemed with subversive tendencies. In an era of disruption where success equals instant marketable hype, Waight Keller is part of a group of designers whose established careers have shown that true talent is what stands the test of time. And haute couture— where time is the finishing touch—is the perfect stage for Waight Keller to show off her skills.
From top: The sunglasses accompanied chambray outfits and leather trousers with finesse. Sunglasses, Dior
Following her debut runway collection for Dior, which opened with a t-shirt that read “We should all be feminists,” Maria Grazia Chiuri takes her inspiration a step further with sunglasses inspired by Niki de Saint Phalle. The FrancoAmerican artist famously wore a pair of aviators during her series of rifl ebased performance art titled Tirs, and Dior’s new eyewear style references that game-changing moment. A cool blend of masculinity and femininity, the aviator comes in sleek shades of yellow, blue and fuschia.
For the city girl on the go, Bvlgari has released a Serpenti backpack that marries both elegance and practicality. Available in black, red, green, white and guava pink, the hexagonal scale-like quilting on the flap cover— plus Bvlgari’s unmistakable Serpenti snakehead as its clasp— lends the backpack a sense of opulence that is sure to make it a staple of every trendsetter
1. Top Stud Club
2. Bag Danse Lente
3. Earrings, Swarovski
4. Sandal, Miu Miu
5. Skirt, about $767, By Malene Birger at Net-a-Porter
6. Dries Van Noten spring/ summer 2018
Bag, Salvatore Ferragamo
Salvatore Ferragamo’s newest Studio is the first bag designed by Paul Andrew, who recently went from Design Director of women’s footwear to Creative Director at the Italian House. “The more I explore the heritage of Salvatore Ferragamo, the more I discover how timelessly relevant his work remains,” said Andrew. “For him, beauty and aesthetic appeal was nothing without usefulness and function. Constructed with quality leather, the bag’s robust rectangular shape accords it a sophistication and appeal that will stand the test of time.
The retrospective spirit of Lacoste’s latest collection stands as a reminder of the brand’s longevity and how far it has come since its founder René Lacoste introduced the tennis shirt to the world. Referencing the brand’s rich heritage, the new range sees pieces from past decades reimagined for today’s active lifestyle through modern silhouettes and a fresh, summery palette splashed across Lacoste’s signature polo shirts, tracksuits and footwear.
Lacoste spring/ summer 2018 collection
From top: Sneaker, $159; top, $169; bag, $369; skirt, $239, Lacoste
Dress, $9,270, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
To say that Marrakesh has played a role in the story of Saint Laurent is an understatement: The Moroccan city practically shaped the course of the brand, from the moment Yves Saint Laurent set foot in it. “The boldness seen since then in my work, I owe to this country, to its forceful harmonies, to its audacious combinations, to the fervour of its creativity,” the late genius once said. Marrakesh’s impact couldn’t have been more obvious this season: Its allure has been funnelled into an enchanting array of ready-to-wear pieces and accessories, from a suede caftan dress to sexy fringed boots.
Necklace, $3,590, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Anthony Vaccarello kickstarted his spring/summer 2018 show with a passage of Marrakeshinspired looks
Brooch, $560, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Sandal, $1,510, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Bootie, $2,450, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
BY GERALD TAN. ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY KIMBERLY ONG