The spring/summer 2017 menswear collections broke the rules, challenged norms, and brought men on an exciting journey across different realms and realities.
The spring/summer 2017 menswear collections broke the rules, challenged norms, and brought men on an exciting journey across different realms and realities.
BON VOYAGE
Wanderlust proved irresistible as designers fashioned an extensive wardrobe for the contemporary man with an insatiable appetite for exploration. Whether camping in forests at Moncler Gamme Bleu, or traversing across Africa’s Serengeti plains at Louis Vuitton, there was something for every adventure. Miuccia Prada stood out by dedicating an entire collection to the theme: Models came armed with waterproof jackets, backpacks, lanyards and bucket hats strapped haphazardly to their bodies.
OPTICAL DRIVE
Like the black and white squares on racing flags, chessboards and everything else in between, this season’s hottest check has gone into graphic overdrive at brands such as Dior Homme, Dolce&Gabbana and MSGM. Don’t be fooled by the check’s audacious outlook—the new-and-improved motif works with just about everything, be it on an oversized t-shirt dripping with urban attitude, or a smart sleeveless shirt paired with voluminous trousers.
BLADE RUNNER
What’s fashion without adding a little style to functionality? Technical parkas and lightweight anoraks were taken to infinity and beyond, thanks to the seamless meld of cutting-edge fabrics and a generous cut that allowed a myriad of coats to power down the catwalks with a fluid-yet- forceful impact. At Versace, the long coats—rendered in a parachute-like material—trailed behind Donatella Versace’s muscled urban warriors and bestowed upon them the aura of Greek gods.
FRESH CREAM
It’s official: Cream is the new white. Designers have stepped away from the usual achromatic tone for a new tale of purity in menswear. And about time, too. The light hue strikes a fine balance between casual and formal, further elevating basic and statement pieces. It’s also perfect for layering and works well against other neutrals. The easiest method to dial up the cream luxe factor this summer is to wear it from head-to-toe, as demonstrated at Dries Van Noten and Valentino.
VAST EXPERIENCE
A broad upper body framed by wide shoulders has long represented the masculine ideal. And if the runways are any indication, designers are achieving this bold- shouldered hulk through exceptional tailoring skills. Demna Gvasalia, for example, took the couture route during his debut menswear showing for Balenciaga, applying the skills of the House onto conceptual coats and jackets with supersized shoulders and an ’80s salary man sensibility.
HANDY MAN
Fact: Men love their bags as much as women do. And judging from what’s on offer this season, they’ll take to spring/summer 2017’s studied assemblage of small shoulder bags in a heartbeat. Don’t be fooled by their petite sizes—these bags are practical, have enough space to port the day’s essentials and won’t cause a strain on the shoulders. Givenchy’s ex-Creative Director, Riccardo Tisci, came up with one of the season’s most prominent interpretations. Slung across the chests of Tisci’s rebellious gang, the handy carrier proves that the next best accessory to have remains a rebellious, too-cool-for-school attitude.
