The 20th anniversary Annual Calendar timepiece proves that producing beautiful watches is in Patek Philippe’s DNA.
The 20th anniversary Annual Calendar timepiece proves that producing beautiful watches is in Patek Philippe’s DNA.
When Patek Philippe unveiled its Ref 4936J Annual Calendar in 2005, it offered female horologists an elegant watch with a level of taste and prestige that belonged in a world of classy vintage cars and summer houses under the Tuscan sun. The watch—which was considered one of Patek’s first complicated watches for women since the Stern family took over the brand’s reins—signalled a change in the times and stood as an emblem of recognition at the marked evolution of female watch lovers: Strong, independent and sophisticated, she was a woman of the world who lived life on her own terms. And she clearly appreciated the technical aspects of a watch as much as she loved beauty. The Ref 4936J was thus a fitting addition to a family of complications that has remained one of the brand’s bestselling numbers. To celebrate the complication’s 20th birthday this year, the brand has introduced its beloved piece under a new and elegant revamped guise. Available in either white gold with a dark grey sunburst dial, or in rose gold with a silvery white opaline dial, Ref 5396 stands at a modestly sized 38.5mm that will gladden the heart of any slender-wristed person. The lines of its classic Calatrava case have been reworked for a fit that eliminates that dreaded gap between the watch and the wrist, while the timepiece’s dial bears a clean, uncluttered look that belies the numerous functions (including a moonphase indicator) that can be clearly seen at a glance.
The credo of simplicity is similarly carried through to the watch’s functions: The date and month only need to be adjusted when it transits from February to March, while the moonphase indicator requires even less attention with a needed adjustment only once every 122 years. In an industry filled with century-old watch houses and products that have seen the turn of decades, 20 years may not seem like a big thing in the grand scheme of horology. Yet, the 20th anniversary of Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar is big news for the year—and with good reason. The Swiss watchmaker’s Ref. 5035, launched in 1996, was the world’s first Annual Calendar wristwatch. Today, it’s a complication that is regularly sought by watch collectors throughout the industry. Although the Ref 5396 is not designed for women per se, its timeless design sits as well on the wrist of any lady as they do a gentleman. It’s a grown-up accoutrement for a woman who would do without the fuss of diamonds or a mother-of-pearl dial as she chairs a day of board meetings. That being said, the Swiss watch giant has been pushing hard on its women’s watches, especially the complicated ones, in recent years. The formation of a dedicated all-women design team indicates the brand’s desire to chase the female dollar. And—as this is Patek that we are talking about—it would not do to create a ladies watch by merely downsizing existing male models and throwing a handful of diamonds into the equation. It’s a philosophy that has paid off. The brand has captured the discerning hearts of countless women with approximately 50 percent of Patek’s sales going towards that market. Couple that with a reputation for designs that last through the decades and you’ve got yourself a timepiece that any connoisseur would be proud to pass down to the next generation. We couldn’t think of a better inheritance.
Today, the Annual Calendar is a complication that is regularly sought by watch collectors throughout the industry.
