IT'S A MAN'S WORLD

A pair of streetwear impresarios have come together for Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall 2020 collection, which sees Artistic Director of the brand’s menswear, Virgil Abloh, teaming up with Nigo—the Japanese designer behind brands such as A Bathing Ape and Billionaire Boys Club—on a capsule called LV2. The collection reinterprets and subverts the well-known codes of Louis Vuitton, the highlight of which is the French house’s signature Damier check being reworked in denim. As a nod to Nigo’s love for London subcultures, the collection is inspired by the ’60s Mod era, resulting in skinny, cropped silhouettes for the tailoring-focused ready-to-wear, and accessories that pack a sharp, graphic punch.

 

From left: LV2 messenger bag, $2,940, Louis Vuitton. Alook from LV2

 

The Givenchy Antigona made its first appearance almost a decade ago under then-Creative Director Riccardo Tisci. This year, for her last menswear collection for the House, Clare Waight Keller brought the iconic bag back and introduced it to the guys, refreshing its look—softer, in line with current takes on masculinity—and dubbing it the Antigona Soft. The geometric shape remains but takes on a new slouch and maxi size that position it as a contemporary hit.

 

Fall/winter 2020 marked new beginnings at a few of fashion’s most well-loved houses. At Kenzo, most recently helmed by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon of Opening Ceremony, Felipe Oliveira Baptista takes the reins. The designer who brought a new cool to Lacoste looked to Kenzo Takada’s own vision of liberating, high-energy fashion as a starting point. This led to pieces that evoked travel with an emphasis on tunics and free-flowing forms. At Tod’s, Walter Chiapponi takes over from the studio team that has been leading the design process since Alessandra Facchinetti’s departure. He shows an understanding of the House’s prim and sophisticated Italian classicism, but subverts it with just the subtlest hint of an off-kilter sensibility—thus giving the aesthetic an electric new frisson.