FANCY – THE NEW EDGY

It’s hard to ignore Gherardo Felloni, the moustachioed, opera-trained, antique jewellery-loving Italian who’s behind some of the most playful shoes to have enraptured the street-style set (remember Miu Miu’s pearl-studded furry slides?).

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It’s hard to ignore Gherardo Felloni, the moustachioed, opera-trained, antique jewellery-loving Italian who’s behind some of the most playful shoes to have enraptured the street-style set (remember Miu Miu’s pearl-studded furry slides?). Now, in his first headlining role as Roger Vivier’s creative director, his tasteful sense of theatrics is on full display, bringing a modern, light-hearted brand of fancy to the maison – and an industry obsessed with hyped-up boots and sneakers. The Tres Vivier, for example, is a retro-fied take on the best-selling Belle Vivier pumps with chunkier buckles and heels. Crystals, feathers and lush finishes like satin feature heavily in his debut S/S ’19 collection. And while he’s got running shoes, they’re a pretty-meets-whimsical mix of candy-coloured Flyknit fabric and strass embellishments – because, really, do we need more ugly sneakers? – IJ
 
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WHEN SCREWING AROUND WITH CLASSICS IS A BRILLIANT IDEA

It calls for a mad man or genius to want to tinker with a beloved, bestselling icon. Cartier falls into the latter category with its year-old Libre collection that puts a wild, cocktail-ready spin on the brand’s signature timepieces. For its 2019 outing, the case of a ’20s edition Tank gets extended into a narrow, ruby-flanked rectangle; the Baignoire is similarly stretched, then used as a canvas for 573 diamonds (and a smattering of emeralds and tourmalines); while the enamel dialled Diagonale is a new creation inspired by the unconventional evening watches the brand was known for during the Art Deco period. You know the adage: Nothing ventured, nothing gained. – IJ

(Clockwise from left) Tank Chinoiserie with rubies and enamel. Baignoire Allongee Celadon with emeralds and tourmalines. Diagonale with enamel. All in 18K white gold with diamonds on alligator strap

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