Sihh 2016 is yet another milestone for the french maison, one that witnesses a perfect marriage between its two savoir faires: high jewellery – along with its panache in gem-setting and craftsmanship – with its study in fine watchmaking, as exemplified by its attention to detail, innovation and eye-opening complications.
Sihh 2016 is yet another milestone for the french maison, one that witnesses a perfect marriage between its two savoir faires: high jewellery – along with its panache in gem-setting and craftsmanship – with its study in fine watchmaking, as exemplified by its attention to detail, innovation and eye-opening complications.
ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTROMYSTÉRIEUX
For more than a decade, Cartier has been toying with the concept of mystery: encapsulating this heritage is the Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux Watch, in which is a movement that seems to be floating entirely free of gravity.
Though comprising the escapement, balance wheel, gear train and barrel, the elongated 9462MC calibre can complete a full turn of the dial in one hour, in a manner that mimics an orbiting heavenly body.
Dauntingly impressive, the Rotonde de Cartier Astromystérieux Watch sets the stage for what is to come.
CLÉ DE CARTIER AUTOMATIC SKELETON
Also playing with the notion of invisibility and mystery but with a focus on line, volume and movement is the Clé de Cartier Automatic Skeleton, one of the very first few creations to feature the key-shaped winding crown (thus its name) in sapphire; it is also the Maison’s initial skeleton movement with automatic winding, the calibre 9621 MC.
The extravagant roman numerals in an open-work design translate to bridges in the shape of the numerals III, VI, IX and XII, all walking the tightrope between solid and void.
Amidst the beauty, the true challenge is to skeletonise the oscillating weight and to make it invisible, while conserving the winding efficiency. The feat was achieved by establishing a judicious balance between its thickness and diameter, determining the optimum weight of the 22-carat gold rotor.
Measuring 41mm, the timepiece is water resistant of up to three bar and is complemented by a double adjustable folding clasp in 18-carat white gold.
ROTONDE DE CARTIER EARTH AND MOON
Named after its two sub-dials representing the Earth and the Moon – both cut out of polished meteorite stone – the new timepiece harks to the stars in a pink gold case of 47mm. On one side, a terrestrial display shows local time as a second time zone indication is represented by a 24-hour disc; the other side, meanwhile, features a lunar display with interdependent tourbillon and on-demand Moon phase indications.
Its push pieces at two and four o’clock adjust the second time zone and conceal the tourbillon cage, respectively.
ROTONDE DE CARTIER DAY/NIGHT RETROGRADE MOON PHASES
From left to right and dawn to dusk, the sun and moon on the timepiece follow each other across the top part of the dial; this feature is mirrored by the retrograde progression of a hand indicating the moon phases, from the first to the last crescent, across the lower part of the dial.
Also an important part of the showpiece is the dial: brushed in deep blue lacquer and illuminated by gold sprangles, it boasts moon phases set with diamonds and sapphires for some extra sparkle.
DRIVE DE CARTIER
Classified as free-minded, elegant, stylish, instinctive, passionate, confident and modern, the Drive de Cartier collection is quintessentially Cartier. Though the aesthetic emphasis varies between each interpretation, its cases – in pink gold or steel – is fitted with a black, grey or white guilloché dial marked by Roman numerals and punctuated with sword-shaped hands.
The transparent case-back reveals the Manufacture movement 1904 MC, available in two versions: hours, minutes, small seconds and date for the 1904-PS MC; and second time zone, day/night indicator, large date and small seconds for the 1904-FU MC.
CRASH SKELETON
The Crash Skeleton in pink gold continues to experiment with shapes and curves with the caliber 9618 MC. Juggling between aesthetics (as characterised by the extravagant Roman numerals) and a fully skeletonised movement that is most indicative of Cartier’s watchmaking prowess, the magic behind the Crash Skeleton’s curvaceous silhouette could be witnessed through a transparent case-back that allows the wearer to admire its surfaces that are beveled, satin-finished and polished.
PANTHÈRE MYSTÉRIEUSE MYSTERIOUS HOUR
Again paying tribute to the animal motif that has been with the brand for more than a century, Panthère Mystérieuse Mysterious Hour is an authentic work of three-dimensional jewellery sculpture as the feline with a coat of diamonds and black lacquer spots curl around the dial, its emerald eyes keeping watch over the time.
Also impressive is the transparent dial on which the hands float in suspension; the timepiece is powered by the invisible caliber 9981 MC.
HYPNOSE
A collection of five models, each with its respective small and large versions, Cartier’s Hypnose series comprises spirals of diamonds that illustrate a hypnotic illusion of form, lines and movement.
The elegant ovals in pink and white gold shape feminine ovals lined with diamonds; each is complemented with an alligator skin strap except for the 18-carat white gold version that is adorned with a bracelet set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
HIGH JEWELLERY COLLECTION
A part of its SIHH 2016 High Jewellery collection, the Cartier à l’infini watch is imagined as a mathematical object: its diamond settings are dressed with black motifs while its silhouette of taut lines and playful curves dance on the wrist. In the middle sits a dial encased in a sapphire crystal slightly bevelled on the sides – its precision to the bracelet drills down to the nearest millimetre.
Small but strong, this dainty timepiece is sure a noisemaker.
PANTHÈRES ET COLIBRI ON DEMAND POWER RESERVE
Giving centre stage to the Maison’s spirit, the Panthères Et Colibri on demand power reserve sees a diamond-and-lacquer-studded panther lying across the dial underneath a hummingbird. This peaceful scene comes to life when the winding crown is pressed and a baby panther escapes the mother’s paws to chase after the gold-winged bird, which actually serves as a power reserve indicator.
Also worthy of a mention is the diamondd-otted background featuring an intricate wild grass motif to further set the mood.
ROGER DUBUIS
EXCALIBUR AUTOMATIC SKELETON CARBON
The only selection for men this year, the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Carbon stands out as the chivalrous warrior in a round case, fluted bezel, triple lugs and distinctive Dauphine-type hands. First presented at the SIHH 2015, the Excalibur Automatic Skeleton became the brand’s first non-tourbillon skeleton timepiece to be powered by its first skeletonised automatic movement.
The latest Excalibur Automatic Skeleton Carbon has further pushed the boundaries of a tech-watch: first, it’s made with sheet moulding compound, a lightweight material prominent in the aerospace industry for its high productivity, cost efficiency and malleability; and its unmistakable star is characterised by tips that point to the hour-markers. Fuelled by the RD820SQ automatic skeleton calibre, the watch is water resistant for up to three bar.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING 37MM
Adhering to its brand principles of modern minimalism, the Royal Oak takes a casual spin on its iconic model: its cool design is brushed with a nickel grey “Grande Tapisserie” dial pattern within a case of 18-carat pink gold, which is complemented by pink-gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
With a heart of Calibre 3120, the timepiece of 26.60mm is made with 40 jewels and 280 parts and can run up to 60 hours. A bracelet in 18-carat pink gold with an AP folding clasp pairs the masterpiece.
MONTBLANC
4810 EXOTOURBILLON SLIM
Tooting the brand’s 110th anniversary is a new 4810 collection that was first unveiled in 2006 during the Maison’s centennial celebrations. Of the series, the ExoTourbillon Slim impresses by meshing Montblanc’s patented ExoTourbillon complication with the addition of a quick stop-second function.
Aside from a mesmerising silvery-white dial laced with an exploding Montblanc Star guilloché design on the upper section, the ExoTourbillon truly amazes in construction: the weight of the cage is disconnected from the balance wheel; and the weight of the cage is minimal, resulting in higher precision and improved isochronism.
Beating at the heart is the Calibre MB 29.21 ExoTourbillon automatic movement, the majesty of which can be witnessed through a sapphire crystal case back.
PIAGET
EMPERADOR COUSSIN XL 700P
Celebrating the 40th anniversary of Piaget’s first in-house quartz movement is the Emperador Coussin XL 700P, an exceptionally unusual marriage of a mechanical calibre and a generator that proves that the brand can do more than ultra-thin calibres.
At the core is a quartz oscillating at 32’768Hz that controls the speed of the generator at 5.33 turns per second, allowing peerless precision that Piaget’s Black Tie collection is known for.
On the eye, it boasts powerfully structured lines: the model of 118 pieces houses an offset oscillating weight and generator that form a figure eight; these offset hours and minutes hand brush over finely tapered hour-markers in place of a dial.
RICHARD MILLE
RM 50-02 ACJ TOURBILLON SPLIT SECOND CHRONOGRAPH
Paying tribute to the world of aviation, Richard Mille’s latest timepiece mimics luxurious corporate jets with open-worked design elements of bridges and baseplate in grade 5 titanium, alongside an extensive application of skeletisation to every possible area.
Continuing the brand legacy, the RM 50-02 ACJ Tourbillon Split Second Chronograph is dramatic and visually breath-taking: the novel case shape in titanium-aluminium alloy with a secondary ceramic bezel was developed to mirror luxury jets’ window shape; and it’s also the first time for the label to replace its Richard Mille screws around the outer edge of the bezel with the distinctively-shaped Torq set screws.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
LADY ARPELS RONDES DES PAPILLONS
The French Maison’s Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons is an ode to nature featuring retrograde hours, variable speed minutes and animation on demand. Rekindling its theme of butterflies – one that has been prominent since 1920s – the dial opens up to blue skies in mother-of-pearl and three coloured butterflies in playful flutter to set the minutes, as the hours take flight in the wake of a swallow in white gold.
Most impressively, the dial comes to life on demand via an animation of 13 seconds, where the butterflies set on a dance around the clouds before calmly resuming their paths.
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
TONDA CHRONOR ANNIVERSAIRE
Also big on anniversaries (its 20th) is Parmigiani Fleurier, who’s launched the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire in celebration: though displaying a chronograph, a split second function and even a large date, it’s bewildering to think that all the functions are integrated onto a single main plate.
Beating to movement PF361, the watch ensures optimal precision with a frequency of 5 Hertz – a rare and phenomenal feature that sees the chronograph’s second hands making 10 jumps per second. The movement itself has two column wheels and a vertical clutch, which, though much more difficult to create, ensures ultimate accuracy.
On the outside, it shows openwork bridges to reveal the mechanism at the core while the two symmetrical column wheels are parallel to the crown’s staff. This assembly is enhanced by sandblasted satin finish as the internal angles on the bridges play with the light, accentuated by the gold’s reflections.
Available in white gold or rose gold (both of which is limited to 25 pieces), Parmigiani Fleurier also added royal blue to its palette for its anniversary edition, each studded with a myriad of lug shapes representative of the brand’s watch profile.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
REVERSO TRIBUTE GYROTOURBILLON
One of the few watches that could be labelled as iconic in our time is definitely Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso, which crosses its 85th milestone this year. Entering the family during such a memorable year is the Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon – a perfect embodiment of the brand’s dedication to precision and finesse whether in the white round dial at the front or the openwork movement at the back.
Equipped with the Jaeger-LeCoultre manually-wound Calibre 179, the front of the watch is dressed with blue steel Dauphine-type hands to evoke the noblest traditions of horological sophistication: a day/night indicator shows up at 11 o’clock, while the seconds are displayed by a graduated disc rotating at the cadence of the Gyrotourbillon.
Directly contrasting at the back is a magical chaos that demonstrates Jaeger-LeCoultre immaculate engraving work, enticing with handdecorated bridges alongside a day/night indicator in 24-hour mode at 2 o’clock as well as a small seconds hand driven by the tourbillon.
THE DUOMÈTRE QUANTIÈME LUNAIRE WATCH
Also seeing new developments this year is the The Duomètre Quantième Lunaire: capturing any connoisseur with its classic white-gold design and the silvered opaline dial, it features a lunar calendar function under the domed sapphire crystal as the hand-hammered moon phase indicator grazes across the star-studded sky. To the right, hour counters blend with traditional hour-markers designed for easy reading; and a jumping seconds counter is beautifully placed at 6 o’clock.
Inside the masterpiece is a Dual-Wing system of two independent mechanisms, one dedicated to functions and the other to the watch’s regulating organ. Powering this system is the manually-wound movement Jaeger-LeCoulture Calibre 381, which comprises 374 parts and two independent barrels.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
PILOT’S WATCH AUTOMATIC 36
It’s not often that you see IWC Schaffhausen reduce in size, so it’s definitely an understatement to say that the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 is a rarity. Measuring only 36mm, this latest addition is the smallest watch in the manufacturer’s collection to fit both men and women with daintier wrists.
Though the three-hand display is recognisably classic, a conspicuous new feature of the model is a discreetly recessed inner circle, which lends the dial a more structured, three-dimensional appearance. Despite its simplicity, the intricateness hides in the crown, which controls the central hacking seconds; while the sapphire glass has an antireflective coating on both sides to guarantee a clear view of the display.
Powered by the mechanical 35111 calibre, the watch is equipped with a soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields; it can run up to 42 hours and is water-resistant to six bar.
To match the minimalistic design is a dark brown Santoni alligator leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet made up of alternating rows of satin-finished and polished links.
BIG PILOT’S HERITAGE WATCH 55
Making a statement in size, on the other hand, is the Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55, a legacy of the historic Big Pilot’s Watch in 1940.
Tipping a hat to the pioneering days of aviation, the dramatic timepiece (along with its twin in 48mm) is reinvented in titanium, making it lighter than the original but still ensuring easy readability and precision. A triangular index also dots either sides of the 12 o’clock position, and the seconds hand is now transformed to a display at 6 o’clock.
Limited to 1000 pieces, the Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55 is powered by the IWC-manufactured calibre 98300 and can run up to 46 hours.
GREUBEL FORSEY
GREUBEL FORSEY DOUBLE BALANCIER
Redefining the limits of chronometry, Greubel Forsey’s latest invention features two inclined balance wheels for optimising performance in stable positions, while the Differentiel Spherique Constant provides steadier amplitude. Aesthetically, it captures with a powerfully wide aperture that reveals the threedimensional heart of the mechanism, as the lugs and finishing are immaculately polished to perfection.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
MÉTIERS D’ART FABULEUX ORNEMENTS
Four new models are added to the family that was designed to celebrate the finest decorative arts around the world: “Indian manuscript” – exemplified by Grand Feu champlevé enamelling and hand engraving; “Ottoman architecture” – defined by hand chamfering, purple mother-of-pearl base and a gold grid work studded with half-pearl beads; “French lacework”, which is adorned with a translucent hand-guilloché Grand Feu enamelled dial; as well as “Chinese embroidery”, a watch that is crafted in white gold according to the stone- cloisonné technique with jade.
