Lux

RETURN OF THE RING

Two new watches with one underrated complication.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

01 

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Memovox line, as historians of chiming watches will know, refers to the manufacture’s family of alarm watches. They might not be as romantic or as expensive as repeaters, but they are arguably more useful and have a vintage charm to them.

This old-school simplicity is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s push for 2020. It is putting the spotlight on the Master Control collection and the Memovox is the perfect introduction to the theme.

The first Memovox was released in 1951 and the design, not counting the Deepsea diving versions, has remained faithful through the years. 

What’s novel for this year is the inclusion of a countdown function for the alarm, as seen in the limited-edition Master Control Memovox Timer. And although its two-tone blue dial and matching strap add modernity to the design, Jaeger-LeCoultre is playing it safe by making only 250 of these unusual pieces.

The crowd-pleasing Master Control Memovox is a more straightforward affair. The silvered dial, hands and indexes, along with an unobtrusive date window and rotating alarm disc, sit comfortably in a 40mm stainless steel case. Both are powered by the selfwinding Calibre 956 – viewable for the first time in a Memovox. 

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MINIMALIST APPEAL The crown at four o'clock winds and sets the movement, while the one at two o'clock sets the alarm.  

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02 FRIENDLY COMPETITION

Like any industry, the business of luxury watches is a competitive one. Thankfully, it’s not so cutthroat that we don’t occasionally find heartwarming collaborations that display the kind of respect and camaraderie H. Moser and MB&F have for each other. To celebrate the 15th anniversary of both brands, each has created a limited-edition watch in the style of the other.

The H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is a take on MB&F’s LM FlyingT, while the LM 101 MB&F x H. Moser (pictured) gets a whole new vibe from following the design language of the H. Moser Endeavour watches. These quirky hybrids are available in a variety of dial colours, with each reference limited to 15 pieces. 

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03 THE MISSING LINK

Many advancements have been made in case material technology, but bracelet innovation has some catching up to do, especially now that full metal “sports chic” watches are all the rage.

Blancpain is doing its part for the oft-overlooked component by introducing titanium bracelets on the Fifty Fathoms Automatique and Fifty Fathoms Grande Date. Those who usually find bracelets too heavy will appreciate these lighter options, engineered with aesthetics in mind.

By placing the screws on the back of the links through a patented system rather than expose them laterally, the bracelets have a smooth look and feel enhanced by a satin-brushed finish. These two 45mm models, previously only available with sailcloth or Nato straps, are still powered by anti-magnetic movements with silicon balance springs and a 120-hour power reserve. 

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04 SETTING SAIL

Given the amount of time many of us have spent in lockdown or quarantine, the news of an upcoming sporting event now feels considerably more exciting. Along with the announcement that the world’s most famous sailing race, America’s Cup, will be returning to the seas next March in New Zealand is the news that Omega will be its official timekeeper.

There is, of course, a commemorative watch to go with it: the cheery Seamaster Planet Ocean 36th America’s Cup Limited Edition, limited to 2,021 pieces. The vibrant ceramic bezel is coloured to include a five-minute countdown for the race, while the red and blue accents stand crisp against the ceramic white dial. Powering it is the Master Chronometer-certified automatic Calibre 8900 with a power reserve of 60 hours. 

Text  Charmian Leong