RIGHT ON SCHEDULE

Save the date with some of the industry’s best.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

Save the date with some of the industry’s best.

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Functionality may not rank very high in priority when it comes to mechanical watches given the digital age, but one can’t argue that a beautifully made calendar complication will always trump the digits on your smartwatch or phone. And then there are calendars that take it to the next level: Annual calendars automatically adjust the date based on 30- and 31-day months, so it requires adjustment only once a year, at the end of February. The far more complex perpetual calendar not only accounts for February, but also the leap year, which means the next time someone needs to make an adjustment to it is in 2100. Here are some of the latest references from Patek Philippe you will want on your wrist immediately.

Inspired by some of the brand’s historical bests, the Ref. 5320 combines the charm of a vintage watch with the guts of a modern one. The perpetual calendar is powered by the new Calibre 324 SQ, which features a full-sized rotor instead of the micro ones used in the 240Q that powered previous perpetual calendars.

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You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better annual calendar anywhere else, considering Patek Philippe was the one who invented this complication. The Ref. 5396 was created to celebrate the 20th anniversary of this accomplishment last year, and uses the 324 S QA LU 24H/303 movement to give it the date, moonphase, day, month and 24-hour display. 

Two new versions were released this year, sporting a blue dial in an 18K rose gold case. The 5396R-014 comes with gold hour markers while the 5396R-015 features baguette-cut diamond batons. Both models are presented with a dark blue alligator strap, have a frequency of 4Hz and autonomy of 45 hours.

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Are your watch winders bursting with round tickers? Then consider the Ref. 5940. The Art Deco-inspired cushion case, Breguet numerals and silvery white dial make this an elegant alternative to traditional perpetual calendars. The slim 240Q calibre gives the watch pleasantly lean dimensions, coming in at just 8.6mm thick.

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Patek Philippe’s first in-house self-winding chronograph got paired with an annual calendar for a double delight. The Ref. 5960 houses Calibre CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H in a 40.5mm case. Originally released in rose gold or platinum, it was replaced in 2015 by the fully stainless steel Ref. 5960/1A shown here.

But a precious metal version has returned this year, in the Ref. 5960/01G- 001. It boasts an 18K white gold case matched with a blue dial. You’ll find the stitched calf leather strap familiar, as it was also used in the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524G from 2015.