The latest trend in skincare is all about piling on the products. But is it worth it? We asked derms what steps your skin really needs.
The latest trend in skincare is all about piling on the products. But is it worth it? We asked derms what steps your skin really needs.
Most of us have followed a three-pronged skincare regime – cleanse, tone, moisturise – our entire adult lives. But as the Korean beauty trend, which boasts a 10- step(!) daily commitment, continues to gain popularity globally, you have to wonder if we’ve been missing out.
“The Korean trend can be beneficial, but it’s not completely necessary,” says Dr Whitney Bowe, a dermatologist in New York City. “What’s more important is to use products for your skin’s needs every day.” Those essentials have evolved over the years, experts say. Here are the new non-negotiables.
Create a clean slate
A quick soap-and-water routine is not enough if you live anywhere other than the pristine countryside. A double-cleanse method, borrowed from South Korea, offers a big pay-off in that it removes all the makeup, dirt and grime from pollution. The process involves using an oil like Shu Uemura Anti/Oxi+ Pollutant & Dullness Clarifying Cleansing Oil ($55) before your usual cleanser. If you’re hesitant about really slicking up your face, cold cream or an oil-based makeup remover is a good alternative, says dermatologist Dr Yoon-Soo Cindy Bae, a clinical assistant professor at NYU Langone Medical Center. Then follow with your regular cleanser. Do this two-part step both in the morning and evening.
Defend and repair
“Everyone over age 30 should apply an antioxidant serum or cream in the morning to fight the signs of ageing,” Dr Bowe says. “It protects skin from environmental stressors like pollution, UV rays and even light from fluorescent bulbs.” The proven antioxidants vitamin C, vitamin E, resveratrol and ferulic acid offer a solid defence. We like Fresh Creme Ancienne Supreme Face Serum ($370). At night, while your skin repairs itself, you want an ingredient that can bring new cells to the surface. Your best bet: a vitamin A (retinol) treatment or a prescription retinoid like Retin-A. Both also encourage collagen production, which will in turn lessen dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles, and improve your skin tone, Dr Bowe says.
Target your problem spots
At bedtime, wear formulas with higher concentrations of active ingredients that address your specific concerns. For acne, a treatment with salicylic acid or glycolic acid will help clear pores. For dark patches, a formula with hydroquinone or vitamin C – like Kiehl’s Dermatologist Solutions Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution ($80) – can lighten spots over time. For wrinkles, Dr Katherine Holcomb, a dermatologist in New Orleans, suggests a treatment containing peptides, such as Ren Keep Young and Beautiful Firming and Smoothing Serum ($98, Escentials) to bolster the skin’s repair process. Apply your potion pre-moisturiser.
Moisturise, moisturise, moisturise
“Absolutely everyone needs a moisturiser,” Dr Holcomb says. “More than making skin feel good, it maintains the skin barrier, which keeps out irritants, fights inflammation and helps skin heal.” People with dry or sensitive skin benefit from oils like cranberry seed or jojoba. Try Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturizing Cream ($46, http://www.sephora. sg). If you have oily skin or acne, use a moisturiser with hyaluronic acid, like Laneige Water Bank Gel Cream ($52). This ingredient provides hydration, not more oil, says Renee Rouleau, a celebrity aesthetician in Austin, Texas. You know what else you need? Broad-spectrum sunscreen, with an SPF of 30 or higher.
Rev your cell turnover
Exfoliating brightens, firms and clears all skin types. Every two weeks, use a peel, like Orbis Aqua Peeling Gel ($28), after cleansing. (If your skin gets irritated, stop your retinoid for at least three days before and after the peel, Dr Holcomb says.) It bestows a final glow on skin.
