A FRESH START

Sure , it might require a little extra care when you’re carrying a cup of coffee . But as an easy - wearing neutral with a crisp edge , white adds a coolly minimalist dimension to a new season of style.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

Sure , it might require a little extra care when you’re carrying a cup of coffee . But as an easy - wearing neutral with a crisp edge , white adds a coolly minimalist dimension to a new season of style.

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SHEER THING

Designer Stefano Pilati takes white to the next level of lightness by creating trousers that are flowy, fluid and slightly see-through. No need to worry about being exposed – the wearer’s modesty is protected by the accompanying lining.

Polyester-blend jacket and cotton shirt, from Alfred Dunhill. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture silk trousers, from Ermenegildo Zegna.

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NEUTRAL TERRITORY

Instead of your trusty denim, pair a khaki jacket and a chambray shirt with a pair of white chinos. Extra points for finishing the look with a pair of sparklingly fresh sneakers. Cotton-blend jacket, from Hugo Boss.

Cotton shirt, cotton T-shirt and cottonblend trousers, from Brunello Cucinelli. Leather sneakers and acetate glasses, from Dior Homme.

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IN EQUILIBRIUM

Balance is key when wearing bold prints and patterns. So, when you’re looking to step out in striking statement pieces, reach for separates in white, which will provide a cool and calm contrast.

Silk-blend jacket, cotton polo shirt and cotton trousers, from Etro.

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LIGHT SHOW

White plays well with another spring favourite: patterns rendered in light pastel shades. Here, minimalist trousers effortlessly complement an updated and outsized madras check.

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture cotton-blend coat and silk trousers, from Ermenegildo Zegna. Leather sneakers, from Jimmy Choo.

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CLEAN SLATE

All-white ensembles were a big trend on the spring runways, but they can look a little Miami Vice (that’s the original television series, not the 2006 film). Temper the ivory overload by adding a little stripe and subtle colour in your outerwear.

Cotton-blend jacket, from Bottega Veneta. Cotton T-shirt, cotton trousers and silk pocket square worn as scarf, from Hugo Boss. Metal sunglasses, from Dior Homme.

IN BRIEF

David Beckham’s underwear collection for fashion retailer H&M will be part of Undressed: A Brief History Of Underwear, an exhibition opening at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in April.

CHECK IN Patterns inspired by madras fabric give outerwear summery lightness.
CHECK IN Patterns inspired by madras fabric give outerwear summery lightness.
SOFT SELL

A resolutely masculine brand takes its cues from womenswear for spring.

From lace shirts by Burberry to crocheted shorts by Gucci (see facing page, “Fresh perspective”), womenswear-inflected men’s styles are having a moment right now – but we’re glad to note that some menswear labels are taking things a little less literally. Under the creative stewardship of designer Stefano Pilati, the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Spring/Summer 2016 collection makes use of the traditional qualities of women’s fashion – fluidity and lightness – to refresh its masculine codes.

Made from Zegna’s exclusive fabrics such as lightweight Double Century cashmere, ultra-fine wool and silks, the pieces include flowing trousers matched with oversized coats, slim-fitting jackets or draped blousons. Updated madras checks form the main patterns, contrasting with ensembles in stark white or black.

For customers who demand a more exacting fit, this season also sees the Italian brand expanding its range of Su Misura offerings. Going beyond regular suits, Pilati’s Broken Suit concept is all about subtly mismatched jacket and trousers – which fans can now have tailored to their exact measurements. Formerly comprising knitwear and outerwear, the custom-made Casual Luxury range now also includes denim, so there’s no excuse to look less than sharp even on your days off . #01-34/36 Paragon.

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FRESH PERSPECTIVE

Gucci’s press notes for its spring collection read like a thesis, with quotes from philosophers such as Jacques Derrida and lines about the “new possibilities of freedom and emancipation”. The thinking that inspired Alessandro Michele’s Spring/Summer collection for Gucci basically translates into pieces that require an open mind about the way men’s fashion is defined today.

A turquoise suit with botanical embroidery? Longsleeved lace or lurex tops? A crocheted top with a butterfly motif, paired with matching shorts? It’s all part of the gender-blurring exercise that Gucci’s latest creative director has been exploring and provides, if not exactly everyday clothing, fashion for thought. #01-38 Paragon.

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EASY DOES IT

What we enjoy most about Hermes’ brand of luxury is how easy it all feels – its menswear, for instance, typically looks relaxed yet sophisticated all at once. Expanding on that theme for spring, Hermes menswear design head Veronique Nichanian proposes plenty of fresh colours and light fabrics, brought together in surprising ways.

Water snake skin in bright red, for instance, takes the otherwise casual form of a hooded jacket, while an elasticised waistband brings comfy ease to trousers in green suede. In Nichanian’s hands, even the classic pinstripe suit – typically synonymous with the corporate world – takes on a stylishly slouchy silhouette that makes it a goanywhere option. #01-12 Scotts Square.

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STONE AGE

Until recently, one of the few ways for a stylish grown man to show his enduring loyalty to the Rolling Stones was by wearing a Zenith watch created as a tribute to the legendary 53-year-old rock band. Thanks to Moncler, fans now have more tasteful sartorial options bearing the mark of their favourite musicians – the highly recognisable “tongue and lips” logo (commissioned by Stones frontman Mick Jagger in 1969) lines four different down-filled, nappa-leather jackets in rock-and-roll black. #01-17 Ion Orchard.