TONNEAU VISION

A complex form backed by an equally complicated movement.

IN A MINUTE

CARTIER

Prive Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time

WHAT IT IS:

The Prive collection explores the less common-shaped watches from Cartier’s extensive catalogue, and has previously welcomed the irregular Crash watch and the curved Tank Cintree. The latest addition to the line is the Tonneau. First introduced in 1906, this barrel-shaped case has been revived with just two models; the more complex one, the Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time watch, is featured here. Unlike a previous iteration that served as inspiration for this timepiece, which had separate movements for the two time zones, this watch uses a single integrated movement – its bottom crown allows local time to be quickly adjusted in one-hour intervals. The other technical feature is, of course, its skeletonised movement.

HOW IT LOOKS:

Cartier’s take on the classic tonneau case is an elongated barrel deﬁ ned by symmetrical bulging ﬂanks with ﬂat top and bottom edges. Seen straight on, it presents a clean, proportionate face. Viewed at an angle, however, the watch’s complex form is revealed – the top surface curves far more aggressively than its bottom one, for instance. The movement complements the case’s symmetry by having a symmetrical layout as well, down to its gear train, which runs down the middle of the watch in a straight line. Taken in its entirety, the watch strikes a balance between showcasing Cartier’s experience with complex watch shapes and its movement development expertise.

HOW IT WEARS:

At 52.4mm by 29.8mm, the Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time watch is large, but this measurement only tells part of the story. The watch’s length and curvature are the main concerns here – for the watch to ﬁt well, its wearer’s wrist must be wide enough, and curved ever so slightly to accommodate its curvilinear caseback. On a suitable wrist, however, the watch neither wears nor looks excessively big, thanks to its narrow case. This is one of those watches that chooses its wearer, rather than the other way around.