Kenneth Goh jets off to Tokyo to marvel at Cartier’s new Magicien collection of high jewellery pieces.He speaks to Jacqueline Karachi - Langane, Creative Director at Cartier, about how legends are made, one sparkle at a time.
Kenneth Goh jets off to Tokyo to marvel at Cartier’s new Magicien collection of high jewellery pieces.He speaks to Jacqueline Karachi - Langane, Creative Director at Cartier, about how legends are made, one sparkle at a time.
How is the spirit of Cartier reflected in this collection?
The spirit of Cartier is always in the stone: First, the stone; then, the design—that’s the most important. It looks very simple but each design is completely different because you catch the spirit of the stone. The creation then becomes moving because you catch the vibrations and magical spirit of the stone. We always try to find new associations with stones and new colours to play with, but always in the Cartier style, so that what we do today is not the same as yesterday. Every day we try to design a new page in Cartier’s history.
What are the hallmarks of Cartier’s design?
The quality, the search for perfection, that timeless style. Yes, there is modernity but it’s a different modernity to fashion. Fashion lasts a season or, at most, a year. With Cartier, modernity has to last 10 to maybe 50 years. It will always be timeless but creative at the same time. When you look at the Cartier “book,” you can see which period of style a particular jewellery piece comes from. But it’s always wearable and you can pass it onto your daughter.
For this collection, how did you reinvent the Tutti Frutti and Panthère designs for today?
Through the choice of the stone and colours used. We want the stones to be alive; after that, it’s on the design. The Tutti Frutti jewels today are more alive because the colours are whiter, and some of their branches look like calligraphy, which is so different and unique. The leaves are more graphic and the whole movement is so different—so much more fluid and lifelike. For the Panthère, the selection process is also very detailed. We have made so many Panthères throughout Cartier’s history, and we try to find a new movement and a new spirit every time. We are lucky because the Panthère can illustrate all the qualities and facets of a woman: It can be aggressive, tender... it can be everything. When you look at all the Panthères, you can see the evolution of the Panthère reflecting the evolution of women. The Panthères today have a lot more movement in their design because women today are always on the go. It’s reflective of today’s society.
What are women looking for when they buy high jewellery?
A unique design; the very best stones. When you turn over a Cartier piece, it is as beautiful at the back as it is in front. And it’s completely flexible and light.
Because each stone is unique, and each design is made to reflect this difference, your piece will become more and more valuable as it is a piece in Cartier’s history.
How important is it to always keep the spirit of fantasy, magic and mystery in your jewellery?
All these qualities are important because each stone carries a magical property in them. They transmit energy and when we design around the stone, we want to share what we feel when we see the stone; we want you to understand the stone. It’s not just about the colour, cut, clarity and design of the jewellery piece. It’s about the stone and the magical qualities it contains.
You have been talking a lot about rhythm, transmissions, energy and vibrations. What music would you play when you wear a piece of Magicien and what would you wear?
Music is very important; it has soul. And stones have a soul; a rhythm and energy within them. I see something with a fast rhythm; something very moving. It’s important to be transported when you have the most beautiful piece of jewellery on and are listening to music that lifts you. I would wear a long black sleeveless dress when I dance to the rhythm of the music with the stone, together as one.
