DANIEL LEE MUST BE TIRED OF ALL THE PHOEBE PHILO ASSOCIATIONS THAT HE’S GOTTEN SINCE BECOMING BOTTEGA VENETA’S CREATIVE DIRECTOR. HE WAS READY-TO-WEAR HEAD AT CELINE WHEN SHE WAS THERE. IT DOESN’T HELP THAT HIS PRE-FALL DEBUT FOR BV BOASTS ECHOES OF HER WITH ITS DISCREETLY SENSUAL, WEARABLE-WITH-A-QUIRK AESTHETIC. LOOK CLOSELY THOUGH, AND YOU’LL SEE THE ITALIAN LABEL’S HERITAGE FILTERED THROUGH HIS OWN YOUTHFUL WIT – FROM AN XL TOTE WITH XL INTRECCIATO STRIPS CHEEKILY NAMED “THE NEW STYLE OF THE SEASON”, TO A LEATHER TANK DRESS WITH ITS SILK LINING PEEKING OUT. ADD THIS TO YOUR FASHION VERNACULAR: DANIEL LEE-ISM.
Daniel Lee’s Pre-fall 2019 debut for Bottega Veneta boasts all the staples that every woman should own – from camel coats to shirt dresses – elevated with luxurious fabrics, spare lines and unexpected tactile accents. His bags possess the same brand of intelligent chic and include The New Style Of The Season – a roomy tote with a hyper exaggerated take on the brand’s intrecciato weave – and the Marie (this page, top), a squarish satchel with a hand-assembled clasp inspired by horology.
THE MOST ENDURING IT BAGS NAMED AFTER FAMOUS WOMEN TEND TO EMBODY THEM. THIS ONE – DEBUTED BY GUCCI IN S/S ’19 – IS NAMED AFTER LA-BASED MUSICIAN ZUMI ROSOW, BUT IS HARDLY ANYTHING LIKE HER. IT’S ELEGANT TO THE POINT OF PRIM WITH ITS NEAT LINES, PRACTICAL HANDLES, AND ARCHIVAL GOLD AND SILVER-TONED HARDWARE THAT COMBINES THE BRAND’S INTERLOCKING “G” AND HORSEBIT MOTIFS. SHE, ON THE OTHER HAND, LOOKS LIKE A ROCK ’N’ ROLL VAMPIRE GODDESS. ONLY MAKES IT ALL THE MORE A CONVERSATION STARTER, WE SAY.
Besides SLGs, the Zumi is available as a ladylike tophandle tote (left and in background opposite) with double-lift lock closures lending a utilitarian quirk, and a petite pochette (below and in foreground opposite) that can also be carried as a clutch. Finishes span smooth or grainy plain leather, a range of exotics, as well as a so-wrong-it’sright pop art strawberry print.
EFFORTLESSLY ARTY PAIRINGS
GEORGIA O’KEEFFE CEMENTED INTELLECTUAL COUNTRY CHIC WITH HER RUSTIC YET AUSTERE UNIFORM OF KIMONO COATS, SMOCKS AND TUNICS. NOW, TORY BURCH HAS ADDED EVEN MORE COLOUR TO THE AMERICAN ARTIST’S OFFBEAT YET EFFORTLESS STYLE WITH HER PREFALL COLLECTION. HERE, A QUICK SKETCH OF ITS ROMANTIC BEAUTY.
The silhouettes: A more feminine take on O’Keeffe’s wardrobe with billowy smocks and tunics in cotton poplin, and relaxed silk shirts and pleated skirts. Artist-style coats add hints of her ambigender style The colour palette: Inspired by her enigmatic paintings of the New Mexico landscape, her neutral-hued wardrobe is now drenched in vibrant desert hues, lavender, forest green and sunset pink. Traditional Japanese indigo dyeing techniques subtly reference her penchant for kimonos – as well as lend an organic touch symbolic of her work. The accessories: The quirkiest part of the collection, they include calfhair-covered clogs and chukka boots, the closest O’Keeffe came to cowgirl dressing.