NOT EVEN POSTBREXIT BLUES OR A DEVASTATING STORM COULD RATTLE THE INDEPENDENT SPIRIT OF LONDON FASHION WEEK FALL/WINTER 2020. HERE, FASHION EDITOR IMRAN JALAL’S FAVOURITE SNAPSHOTS FROM THE FRONT ROW, BACKSTAGE AND THE SEASON’S BEST PARTIES, ALL CAPTURED ON SAMSUNG’S GALAXY Z FLIP.
(Clockwise from top left) Cult fashion label Rixo feted its collaboration with king of ’80s excess Christian Lacroix with a banquet-themed presentation. Our LFW companion/Female Collective member Trishna Goklani braved the weather brought about by Storm Dennis en route to the Molly Goddard show, Samsung Galaxy Z Flip in hand. The chic and handy size of the foldable Samsung Galaxy Z Flip when closed matched that of some of the season’s most Instagrammable show invites. Pose star Billy Porter – dressed in a floral sequinned blazer – stopped and posed for a picture post-Richard Quinn. Milliner Stephen Jones with legendary British model Erin O’Connor at the 40th anniversary celebration of his business, held in his intimate, art-adorned atelier in Covent Garden. Not a model, but a photographer backstage at the MM6 Maison Margiela show who caught my eye with her Joan Jett-meets-Morticia Addams look. How not to Instagram the silk twill logo scarf and pouch that was gifted to every guest who attended Burberry’s show? Maximalist style star/jewellery buyer Lauren Kulchinsky Levison stole the show at Molly Goddard with her XXL frock by the designer. Guests at Erdem who looked as if they had walked right off the runway, pulling off the brand’s Victoriana-inspired S/S ’20 collection with effortless elegance. Opposite: Meet Richard Quinn’s answer to the bridesmaid’s dress.
(Above, clockwise from top left) JW Anderson coined the term “nouveau chic” to describe his 41-look collection that put a boldly futuristic slant on classic haute couture silhouettes. Molly Goddard’s romantic, child-like aesthetic got extra personal with her referencing a childhood photo of herself in a sweater and ruffled skirt worn over jeans as inspiration. A tie-up with The North Face meant an unexpectedly sporty – and cool – brand of New Wave glamour at MM6 Maison Margiela. The moodily romantic Erdem drew from British photographer Cecil Beaton’s portraits of bohemian aristocrats from the ’20s and ’30s for one delightfully eclectic, formal line-up.
(Main picture) Burberry’s dramatic set at the cavernous Olympia London Exhibition Hall included a mirrored runway and two grand pianos on which French duo/sisters Katia and Marielle Labeque performed the show’s stirring soundtrack live. (Above, clockwise from top left) Huishan Zhang parlayed his couture training at Dior into a collection worthy of any young Hollywood starlet at his namesake label. What we loved about Paula Knorr: its cast of older models and its sustainable designs made with upcycled and deadstock sequins. Halpern served up major Dynasty vibes with his OTT, jewel-toned gowns. Richard Quinn’s huge balloon dresses ticked one of Fall/Winter 2020’s most directional trends: the cocoon shape.