Day Watch

The latest batch of sunscreens don’t just protect against UV – they double as skincare, protect against environmental attacks, brighten, and stay on even when wet. Moh Shuying breaks down how this latest gen of overachieving sun care works.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel

The latest batch of sunscreens don’t just protect against UV – they double as skincare, protect against environmental attacks, brighten, and stay on even when wet. Moh Shuying breaks down how this latest gen of overachieving sun care works.

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THE NEW FIGHTERS AGAINST AGE

No, we are not talking about simply fighting premature ageing caused by UV damage (#basic). These are the souped-up battlers to keep youth on your side, improving everything from tone to texture to firmness.

Top contenders: the Cle de Peau Beaute Sun-Skincare range, with its squad of extracts. Mangosteen supposedly suppresses the overproduction of gelatinase (an enzyme activated by UV rays that weakens collagen, leading to sagging and fine lines). Asian ginseng promises to boost repair, while plumping and firming skin, and Japanese pearl helps retexturise skin for a smoother complexion.

Two more extracts defend against aggressors that can exacerbate ageing: Wild thyme, which is said to protect skin cells at a DNA level to prevent damage, and scutellaria baicalensis herb, which reportedly fights free radical damage by eliminating oxidation-causing enzymes. For the win: anti-pollution powder that acts like a veil over skin to prevent skin contact with harmful pollutants.

All these anti-ageing ingredients are present in the line’s two face and two body sunscreens. Face first: The UV Protective Cream SPF50+/PA++++ works as a makeup base with a blend of oil-absorbing powder and ethyl ascorbic acid to counter oiliness and supposedly prevent the formation of dark spots. Able to take the place of foundation (it comes in four shades) is the UV Protective Cream Tinted SPF50+/PA++++ that evens out skin tone and provides medium coverage.

For the rest of you: The UV Protective Emulsion for Body comes in two formulations: SPF30/PA+++ and SPF50+/PA++++. The former is a dewy soft cream, while the latter, a watery fluid. Bonus: The Japanese brand’s also launching a UV Protective Lip Treatment SPF30/ PA+++ that hydrates, softens and nourishes puckers, even as it protects.

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THE “WET AND SWEAT” PROOF

Most sun care tends to get washed off, or weaken when dampened – not these. Even when they come into contact with rain (or any type of moisture actually, your perspiration included), they stay on the defence when the sun comes out again.

The lightweight, water-resistant Neutrogena Sheer Zinc Dry-Touch Sunscreen SPF50+/PA++++ ($31.90) lasts a good 80 minutes when water gets on skin. This physical screen barrier’s made with 100 per cent zinc oxide, and is suitable for those who are eczema-prone (it’s fragrance-free and hypoallergenic).

When the going gets tough (read: wetter), the protection strength of the gel-textured Shiseido Perfect UV Protector Hydrofresh SPF50+/PA++++ (price unavailable) ratchets up some 24 per cent. How it works: The negative ions in its formulation attract and bond with minerals in water and perspiration (the positive ions), creating a stronger and tighter layer that’s better able to protect against the rays. 

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THE ENVIRONMENTAL WARRIORS

A day out doesn’t mean just protecting against the sun. Pollutants are possibly the next most harmful external aggressors that not only cause free radical damage, but also irritate your skin.

The Atmosphere Therapy Complex O in SK-II’s Atmosphere Airy Light UV Emulsion SPF30/PA+++ ($99) is made of pitera, niacinamide and opuntia plant extract (it sounds complex, but who cares as long as it works?) to protect skin from harm caused by infrared light, pollution and UV rays.

Working on the inner layers of your skin is Lancome’s UV Expert Youth Shield Milky Bright SPF50/PA++++ ($75), which comes with pure vitamin E and rose extracts that provide antioxidation, anti-inflammation and soothing benefits. On the surface, its moringa extract supposedly provides an anti-adhesion and anti-penetration effect to ward off pollution particles.

The filters of Chanel’s UV Essentiel Gel-Creme SPF50/PA+++ ($87) act as an anti-pollutant shield, while tiare flower extract reportedly stimulates the action of SPRPs, intuitive protective proteins present in skin cells that deter aggressors.

For those with drier complexions who need more TLC, Cosme Decorte Multi Protection Sun Shelter SPF50+/PA++++ ($44) is an emulsion that hydrates, tones and refreshes (it has rosemary leaf extract and glycerine), while countering pollutants. 

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THE BRIGHTER ONES

Get out into the sun and look fairer? It can work if you have these on. They come chock-full of ingredients to create even toned and radiant skin (think whitening serums).

Sisley’s Phyto-Blanc Brightening Daily Defense Fluid SPF50/PA++++ ($370) boasts a trio of heroes (hexylresorcinol, stabilised vitamin C and modified rhubarb extract) as the active ingredients – said to assist in keeping melanin production and pigmentation in check. Added hydrating and soothing pro-vitamin B5 lessens dryness and blotchiness.

The Glyco Bright complex within YSL Beauty’s Blanc Pur Couture UV Protection SPF50/PA++++ ($92) not only promises to fend off skin’s external aggressors and prevent dark spots, but also helps to smooth your complexion so it’s better able to reflect light.

Keeping it lightweight is Diorsnow UV Shield SPF50/PA+++ ($90). It has edelweiss extract that promises to reduce melanin production and regulate the microcirculation of blood to decrease the red tones in skin. Plus, it’s a bliss to apply, thanks to its airy, buoyant texture.

Similarly, tones in the skin (yellow in this case) are reduced – courtesy of the vitamin C, niacinamide, algae and daisy extract formulation of Philosophy’s Brighten My Day Skin Protecting Brightening UV+ Shield SPF30 ($49). It’s also said to boost skin’s ability to reflect light, while helping to shield against damage caused by infrared and visible light, and UVA and UVB rays.

If fairness faster is your thing, try Sulwhasoo Snowise Brightening UV Protector SPF50+/PA++++ ($92), which comes in two shades: Soft Glow (for natural radiance) and Soft Peach (it leaves a soft, rosy glow). Both contain white cloud grass extract that supposedly reduces dullness.