Though the pre-fall collections were designed well before the current crisis, the messages behind them are more resonant than ever. Many conveyed a sense of joyfulness through candy colours, megawatt metallics and frothy fabrics. Others championed good old staples: Hard-working denim, chic camel suits and sparkly glad rags for night.
CAROLINA HERRERA
THE LIGHTNESS OF BEING
Tiers of tulle, fluttering feathers, wisps of chiffon and organza; there was a romantic, unabashedly feminine mood in the air this season—further heightened by standout hues that ranged from sorbet sweet to super saturated. Lightweight dresses in soft sunrise colours were seen at Chanel and Oscar de la Renta, while Fendi, Valentino and Giambattista Valli all had their own takes on frothy, ruffed frocks in pale pastels.
1 OSCAR DE LA RENTA
2 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
3 GIVENCHY
4 VALENTINO
BLUE SKY THINKING
Classic Blue may be the 2020 Pantone Color of the Year, but the softer sky blue speaks more to the uplift we crave in these times. From the old school, such as Givenchy’s elegant day sheath with gently puffed sleeves and Carolina Herrera’s classic checks, to the new age—think Sacai’s silk handkerchief dress overlaid with astral prints, and Dior’s luxe sportswear with maps and zoological motifs—these are the perfect pieces to beat the blues.
1 CAROLINA HERRERA
2 SACAI
3 GIVENCHY
4 DIOR
GOOD JEANS
There is always much comfort to be found in the familiar. Pre-fall 2020 saw the resurgence of good old dependable denim, interpreted in ways both new and old. Tory Burch and Michael Kors both looked to the ’70s— tailored, boxy and worn with silk scarves and knits at the former; at the latter, paired with indigo suede and tan leather extras. Fendi and Balmain had the ’80s on their minds, resulting in statement shoulders, nipped waists and even acid wash.
1 BALMAIN
2 TORY BURCH
3 FENDI
4 MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION
NEW BOURGEOIS
The codes of the bourgeois wardrobe— prim skirt suits, camel coats, ladylike blouses—ruled the runways this past year. For pre-fall, designers injected a dose of the unexpected into the formula to refresh it for a new generation. At Max Mara, chocolate suits were trimmed with ruffes and worn with silk tees. Other designers looked to unexpected colour combinations to zing up standard bourgeois browns—petrol blue and fire-engine red at Balenciaga, lilac and blush at Givenchy, and mint and oxblood at Gucci.
1 FENDI
2 GUCCI
3 BALENCIAGA
4 GIVENCHY
5 MAX MARA
BANDEAU TOGETHER
The ’90s revival showed no sign of abating; there was still a penchant for the decade’s pared-back fashions this season and the bandeau silhouette was the latest to make a comeback. With clean, straight lines and a form that fits close to the body, bandeau-inspired pieces make for effortless, minimal styling whether worn on its own or layered. Chanel, Dior and Proenza Schouler all served up iterations in timeless black.
1 CHANEL
2 BALMAIN
3 PROENZA SCHOULER
4 MOSCHINO
5 DIOR
SHINE ON
In moments of darkness, fashion can o er a glimmer of beauty. A group of designers made this concept literal this season, turning out looks that sparkled and shimmered. Gold and silver goddess gowns showed up at Gucci and Moschino, but high shine doesn’t have to be relegated to only evenings. Chanel, Armani and Oscar de la Renta offered brilliant separates to brighten up the day, while Bottega Veneta and Michael Kors Collection paired liquid dresses with tough-girl boots for street edge.
1 VALENTINO
2 MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION
3 OSCAR DE LA RENTA
4 BOTTEGA VENETA
5 GIORGIO ARMANI
6 CHANEL
