RING IT IN

Breguet’s work on its revamped Marine line continues, this time with an uncommon complication anchoring a complex timepiece.

Portrait of Tammy Strobel
WHAT IT IS:

Breguet’s Marine collection pays tribute to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s work in advancing nautical navigation, both via the production of finely regulated marine chronometers that keep accurate time at sea, and his contributions at the Bureau des Longitudes. The line was revamped in 2017, and Breguet has steadily added to it since. One of the more recent highlights is the Marine Alarme Musicale Ref. 5547, which combines a simple date display with a second time zone indicator and an alarm. This model is available in three references: one in white gold with a blue dial, a second in rose gold bearing a silvered dial, and finally a version in titanium featuring a slate grey dial.

HOW IT LOOKS:

The three references share identical movements, and obviously identical dial layouts as a result. Each is pretty busy, beginning with a fairly wide rim bearing applique Roman numeral indexes. Within the central portion, the larger subdial at three o’clock is for the alarm, while the smaller one across from it is for the second time zone. An aperture at 12 o’clock indicates the alarm’s status, and a sector next to it shows the alarm’s power reserve. It’s a busy dial, especially for the versions in gold, which add a wave-like engine-turned pattern to the mix. As for the alarm? It rings for about 10 seconds, which probably makes it more suitable as a reminder during the day, rather than as a morning rouser.

HOW IT WEARS:

Ref. 5547 bears the same updates as the rest of the revised Marine collection, including a slimmer case and articulated lugs. As a result, the 40mm case wears a little smaller than it should – good news for those with slimmer wrists. The exact experience one has will depend on the reference though; the titanium-cased version is obviously the most comfortable here given its weight and warmth, while the gold ones will offer more heft.

MOVEMENT

Self-winding movement with 45-hour power reserve

CASE

40mm in rose gold, white gold or titanium

PRICE

$57,300 (gold), $41,100 (titanium)

TEXT CHARLIE LIM