GREAT STRAINS

Is good bacteria in probiotic skincare the key to a healthy, balanced complexion free of sensitivities? CHARMAINE LEE investigates.

Think of probiotics and a tub of creamy yogurt probably comes to mind. Most of us understand probiotics as the “good bacteria” found in foods like kombucha, tempeh and kimchi. And that they’re good for your gut. But in recent months, beauty companies have been taking things further by introducing probiotic skincare – an umbrella term for creams, serums, masks, mists and other facial goodies packed with the good stuff.

Unlike probiotic-rich foods that contain live cultures, the probiotics found in skincare are typically ferments or extracts of good bacteria strains.

But there are close parallels between these products and your favourite pot of Greek yogurt.

According to Dr Lim Kar Seng, consultant dermatologist at The Dermatology Practice, oral probiotics introduce good bacteria to line the gut, creating a healthy barrier and preventing inflammation within the body.

In the same way, probiotic skincare forms a protective film on skin and strengthens its natural healing mechanisms, with some brands claiming this helps to alleviate common woes like acne and dry skin. “For example, in one study, the strain streptococcus thermophiles (commonly found in yogurt) was shown to increase cellular production of ceramides – an effective humectant – which is great for sensitive and eczema-prone skin,” says Dr Georgia Lee, medical director of TLC Lifestyle Practice Clinic.

Here’s what you need to know about probiotic skincare.

HOW DO TOPICAL PROBIOTICS WORK?

Dr Lim explains that skin has harmful microorganisms – think naturally occurring bad bacteria or external aggressors like pollution. “The body’s immune system recognises these as foreign particles, and counters this potential threat by causing inflammation. Topical probiotics sit on the skin’s surface, acting as a barrier, preventing skin cells from ‘seeing’ the bad bacteria.”

WHAT ARE THE EXPECTED RESULTS?

Dr Lee says: “Probiotics applied topically (creams, serums or masks) may reduce the skin’s inflammatory response to harmful micro-organisms. They could help diminish redness and calm the skin.”

WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING TOPICAL PROBIOTICS?

“What’s important is the strain of bacteria in the product, and how it’s processed and stored,” says Dr Lee. “Airless pumps or singleuse packaging are ideal, as exposure to air may reduce efficacy. You should also store probiotic skincare products in a cool area.”

ARE PROBIOTICS SUITABLE FOR ALL SKIN TYPES?

“At this moment, topical probiotics seem to be more geared towards problematic skin (dry, or acne- and eczema-prone), but oral supplementation for general health is suitable for most people,” says Dr Lee. On the following page is our edit of products containing probiotics which will be a great addition to your beauty routine.

Aurelia Probiotic Skincare Miracle Cleanser, US$66 ($90).

This creamy balm has probiotic proteins and peptide technologies to cleanse and remove makeup in one step. Massage into dry skin for at least a minute, then rinse. It leaves skin feeling clean but not tight. The calming fragrance is a bonus.

Burt’s Bees Intense Hydration Night Cream, $52.

This creamy moisturiser melts upon contact with skin, getting absorbed almost immediately but leaving a light film to protect and replenish moisture levels – perfect for those who sleep in air-conditioned rooms. After two weeks of use, skin looks more supple with less-visible fine lines and wrinkles.

IDS Probiotic Mask with RSQ-complex, $67.

If you have acne-prone skin, use this mask two or three times a week, or as an overnight spot treatment. It contains a probiotic ferment believed to combat acnecausing bacteria and reduce inflammation.

Allies of Skin Molecular Saviour Toner Mist, $79.

Delivered as a mist, it’s the most fuss-free way to get your probiotic fix. The alcohol-free, antievaporation formula means it stays on your face longer than regular mists – go ahead and pat it into your skin like you would a serum. A blend of antioxidants and probiotic ferment (the lactobacillus variety) is said to help balance skin and reduce redness.

Elizabeth Arden Superstart Skin Renewal Booster, $95.

This water-based skincare booster is housed in an airtight pump bottle to stabilise its light- and airsensitive ingredients. Formulated to help balance and strengthen a weakened skin barrier, it has a probiotic complex, botanical glasswort, sea fennel and flaxseed extracts to keep skin moisturised and healthy. Apply before serum or moisturiser.