The calm outside Maxwell Chambers is deceptive.
Award of Excellence
OTTO RISTORANTE
#01-02/03 Maxwell Chambers, 32 Maxwell Road, S(069115) T 6227-6819
The calm outside Maxwell Chambers is deceptive, we realise, as we step into Otto Ristorante in time to see the hostess turn away a group of suits with genuine regret because the restaurant is full. It’s the lunch period and the restaurant is packed to the rafters; reservations are absolutely vital. Thankfully, we have one.
The restaurant is modern and elegant, with a simplicity that is carried through to chef Michele Pavanello’s menu. The Italian fare here is authentic and generous in portion. From the seasonal white asparagus menu, the grilled white asparagus with Tomino cheese and aged balsamic vinegar was our pick. As we were sharing, restaurant manager Michele Grasso cut each asparagus lengthwise right in front of us and apportioned it – the melted, nutty Piedmont cheese went well with the tender freshness of the asparagus.
Our other starter of Mazara red prawn tartare – this shellfish from Sicily is one of the most sought after from the Mediterranean – had a briny sweetness that was brilliantly offset by the slight bitterness of fennel jelly and the acidity of green apple slices.
One of the steadfast pasta favourites is spaghetti with sea urchin and Sardinian grey mullet bottarga. It was well-cooked, rich and creamy, with textural interest courtesy of zucchini strips and the sprinkle of bottarga. We would have loved it more if it had come with a topping of sea urchin.
A classic must-have in any true blue, self-respecting Northern Italian restaurant is the osso buco, here served on a bright-hued bed of Milanese-style saffron risotto. Although the presentation was straightforward, the generous portion and deep flavours couldn’t be faulted.
Dessert-wise, the Venetian iced meringue cake caught our eye. When brought to the table, hot chocolate soup was poured over, melting the meringue. A deep spoonful revealed the pistachio centre – too decadent for a weekday lunch but we enjoyed every mouthful to the last anyway.
Even though the restaurant was full, Grasso and his team flitted around the tables like principal ballet dancers, recommending the fastest dishes to order for a quick lunch, and patiently discovering a guest was vegetarian, despite the latter having answered in the negative regarding dietary restrictions. The kitchen was firing on all cylinders like an Italian supercar; dishes were served with controlled speed so guests never had to wait too long, nor feel rushed between courses.
Award of Excellence
OSTERIA MOZZA
#B1-42/46, Galleria Level, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, S(018956) T 6688-8522
Osteria Mozza is one of those places that get its formula right, from the start. The Italian-American restaurant doesn’t disappoint with its dependable menu of robust flavours and generous portions. Launched seven years ago, the elegant venue, with its dark wood furnishings and white marble counters, still doesn’t look dated. Whether you are dining with business associates, friends or family, you’d feel relaxed and at ease here.
Known for its mozzarella offerings, the restaurant offers 10 types of these soft, creamy cheeses. You can’t go wrong with the classic caprese of burrata – soft bouncy burrata share plate space with juicy vine-ripened tomatoes and lightly toasted crusty bread. Before the mains arrive, munch on starters such as chargrilled octopus paired with potatoes, celery and lemon, or calamari fritti with capers and pickled chilli butter.
The freshly made pastas are always consistently good here. The perfectly cooked tagliatelle mingling with richly flavoured oxtail ragu is excellent, as is the fazzoletti tossed with a robust duck ragu.
Beef and potatoes may sound ordinary but that’s definitely not the case with this gigantic platter of protein at Mozza. Porcini-rubbed wagyu rib-eye bistecca is accompanied by crisp, golden fried potatoes. This is a great option if you are dining with a group of meat-loving friends. Pair the tender slices of beef with an Italian red from the restaurant’s extensive wine list. If you like to have a sampling, there are plenty of wines by the glass (six whites and eight reds) to boot.
Service staff flit from one table to the next, ensuring everything is in order. They are efficient and polite, though not particularly personable. But as it’s such a well-oiled machine here, nobody’s complaining.
Award of Excellence
RANG MAHAL
Level 3, Pan Pacific Singapore, S(039595) T 6333-1788
To have a meal at Rang Mahal is to immerse in the delicate practice of bringing together opposites. You’ll first encounter this when walking in, through a dark, crimson walkway. The light at the end of this “tunnel” is a high-ceilinged European-style dining hall with white-washed oak floors. Warmth, in this room for giants which fits 92, is exuded by humble and gracious service.
On the table, individually plated dishes are paired with larger sharing platters: the staff will thoughtfully suggest adjusting set portions in accordance with dining-group sizes. “Would you like for us to add one portion of lamb chop tandoori so each of you get a piece?” our server initiated. The spices on the evenly cooked and succulent lamb are evident, but they are gentle in piquancy. The robust clove-smoked bharta (eggplant) with its glorious layers of textures is served in a clear Korken jar.
Within this straightforward, clean-lined space, complexities abound as evidenced by the flavours found in classic dishes – the murgh makhni’s thick honey tomato gravy is a little nutty, tangy, smooth and light, yet still full-flavoured. The classic amchuri bhindi is crunchy, not sticky – the dried mango powder accentuating the textures and natural freshness of okra. These dishes are ready to be paired with one of Rang Mahal’s 240 wines from the old and new worlds (two Indian wines included).
Despite its luxurious setting, Rang Mahal is committed to giving back to poor communities – pots used in the restaurant were bought from Rani, a single mother of two living in the Indian state of Rajasthan (where the village of Rang Mahal is located). Rang Mahal’s parent company is also big on philanthropy, distributing blankets in areas in northern India affected by severe cold weather every winter, among other activities. These are efforts we can get behind.
