We talk shop with Jean-Loup Glénat, Franck Muller’s Head of Design, on the brand’s latest offerings.
From top: Franck Muller's Head of Design, Jean-Loup Glénat. Cintrée Curvex Crazy Hours Asia Exclusive watches in rose gold and diamond, $39,783 each; steel and diamond, $29,190, Franck Muller. Watchland, Franck Muller’s headquarters in Geneva
What has Franck Muller (FM) set out to do for its female fans in 2019?
Apart from continuing to present our main and well-known collections in new colours and executions, there is also a new exclusive collection for the Cintrée Curvex Crazy Hours. When we celebrated the 15th anniversary of Crazy Hours in Asia [last year], we experienced an overwhelming response from women who had a desire for such a vivacious, petite complication, which pushed us to create an extension of this collection. We’ve also continued with creations of upscale calibres for women, mainly within the Vanguard line. I refer to the Vanguard Lady Crazy Hours, and more complicated pieces such as the Vanguard Lady Gravity and the Vanguard Lady Skeleton.
Do you have a philosophy that you subscribe to when designing women’s watches?
Our strategy is always to offer a beautiful diversity of models to our customers. They can turn to the eccentricity of a Crazy Hours, the elegance of a Long Island, the freshness of a Vanguard or the spark of a Double Mystery. In this diversity, we maintain a philosophy of sensuality, audacity and distinctiveness.
What does FM offer women that cannot be found in the timepiece market?
FM timepieces have a strong character and DNA that I believe speak to women with the same qualities—women who want and dare to be different. I believe that the Manufacture masters perfectly the art of sensuality in its creations. This is particularly reflected with the curves and the successful proportions of its cases. The expressive numerals on the dials also communicate a presence that is unique to us.
What is the one thing about FM that you wished every female watch lover knew?
The historic and emblematic products of the brand such as the Crazy Hours, the Aeternitas Mega or the Giga Tourbillon are the result of a free, creative spirit and, if I may say, an expression of “crazy” watchmaking. This is something that is truly unique to the brand, especially in this ever-competitive trade where many succumb to commercial pressures. We create without this complexity and march to a beat of our own.
What is the one ladies’ watch you designed that you are most proud of?
I think that my favourite ladies’ timepiece is the Vanguard Lady Skeleton Heart. Indeed, we regularly create collections based on a theme, a culture or a symbol. I particularly appreciate these kind of projects which bring a strong poetic dimension to the object. It gives me great satisfaction every time we are able to overcome obstacles with new creative techniques, while being true to the original design.