Amanbagh’s new Wellness Immersion provides a taste of Ayurveda in a lush mountain setting
Amanbagh’s new Wellness Immersion provides a taste of Ayurveda in a lush mountain setting
As home of the ancient healing science established more than 5,000 years ago, where better to discover Ayurveda’s secrets to health and longevity than the Aravali mountain range, cloaking the Mughal-inspired oasis of Amanbagh? With only the chirping of birds and rambunctious chatter of rhesus monkeys, the verdant escape provides serenity to reset and recharge. While immersions of up to 21 days are available, the four-day Ayur programme offers customised dosha-specific nutrition plans and treatments, complemented by excursions to discover the rugged beauty of Rajasthan.
DAY 1
Lush surroundings and building intensity of the sun eases me into a tranquil morning. A private yoga session with Shekhar draws on the same sense of peace. We move slowly – unraveling the kinks and stiffness joint by joint, no sun salutations, just exercises to loosen the hip flexors and warm the body gently. After three rounds of ‘breath of fire’ pranayama breathing forcefully with each inhale and exhale, my face radiates with heat and the light-headedness provides a sign that the body is beginning to wake in its entirety. After more stretching, we dive into the relaxation portion, as he senses my tiredness from 15 hours of travel the previous day, careful to set the tempo of the retreat in a sustainable manner.
After a consultation with Ayurvedic physician Dr Sunil who performs a pulse reading and asks a series of questions to determine my dosha – predominantly vata with a hint of pitta, he creates a nutrition and spa treatment plan for health and relaxation, to bring some of kapha’s grounding earth nature to balance the flightiness of the air sign, through richer, nourishing food and spa treatments to quiet an overactive mind. The abhyanga massage to follow, performed by two therapists, aims to relieve stress and harmonise the three doshas.
Lunch is phyllo parcels of cream cheese and asparagus, followed by a saffron risotto (with even more cream cheese) which Chef Sourabh explains is to nourish vata’s cool composition. After taking a dip in my gorgeous villa pool, with a family of 15 or so monkeys who provide all the entertainment I need, sipping water and even jumping into it, before making my second appearance at the spa. This time, for a choornaswedana treatment involving powerful pummeling of Ayurvedic poultices, leaving me floating on air after the therapists have worked their magic.
Fire meditation ends an eventful first day. Shekhar, Dr Sunil and I meet at the rooftop with a spectacular view overlooking the pool framed by the wilderness, to gather around a fire pit surrounded by pink petals for a purification ceremony. The flickering flame, which we take turns feeding with dried herbs, fruits and vegetables, serves as the focal point for the meditation, which is dedicated to giving back to society and continuing the warmth of the essential life force. Speaking of which, dinner is corn fritters, dahl and paneer, an indulgent meal, but I’m not complaining.
DAY 2
With remnants of evening coolness still lingering, I make my way to the top of the turret for my private yoga class with Shekhar. One couldn’t ask for a more picturesque setting with glorious panoramas stretching beyond the resort walls, where blaring Bollywood music from the vehicles of gypsy pilgrims compete with mystical aarti chanting at the temple. Keen to personalise the session, he asks what I would like to achieve with the class, and we decide to focus on strength by holding poses for longer.
Full of encouragement, Shekhar pushes me to my absolute limit in terms of flexibility, transforming the comfort of child’s pose into one of pain as he presses my upper back into the ground, asking me to breathe through the discomfort, firing up in my ankles and thighs which are butterfly-winged out beyond the mat to demonstrate the power of ‘mind over matter’. Satisfied that my body is “expressing itself” he suggests I study the theory behind yoga, which he believes far outweighs its practical application, and to even consider a teaching course.
The theme of today’s treatments features oil more heavily than any I have experienced. The first, pizhichil, originating from Kerala involves four litres of warm oil being poured over the body by therapists Veena and Anu, as you lie face down on a wooden slat with leather bolsters for your knees, which was rather enjoyable as my parched skin absorbs the moisture. The second, shirodhara, less so, which has nothing to do with the technique and everything to do with my inability to relax. here, a steady stream of medicated oil flows onto the forehead, believed to improve mental relaxation, but in my case was overly focused on one part of the body.
Dr Sunil is extremely receptive to feedback, and changed my second scheduled shirodhara for my favourite abhyanga. Similarly, after commenting for my preference for less heavy (three-course breakfasts, while delicious, took getting used to) and hot meals given the balmy weather, he asks Chef Sourabh to lighten the offerings, and lunch was a refreshing grape and almond soup, followed by grilled vegetables. After mentioning my sweet tooth, he arranges for a raisin semolina pudding to follow a beet, orange and pine nut salad, okra and dahl. he believes that for health, eating must be a mindful, pleasurable part of the day, and made this happen while still adhering to Ayurvedic principles.
DAY 3
The first opportunity to leave the cosy cocoon of Amanbagh was a trip to the ruins of Bhangarh Fort, built in the late 1500s by Jaipur royal Diwan Madho Singh was once a vibrant city filled with jewellery bazaars, a palace, temples and gardens, but today lies desolate. Legend has it that an evil magician laid a curse on the town after failing to seduce its queen, leaving it completely deserted overnight; it is also believed to be one of India’s most haunted sites. hiking to the National heritage in the daytime provides a breathtaking perspective of the achingly picturesque medieval treasure, but its bat-infested towers and marble rubble add to its eerie ambience, particularly after nightfall.
Back at the resort, a fascinating Ayurvedic cooking was sandwiched between pizhichil and choornaswedana treatments. Chef Sourabh introduced the vibrant array of spices to be used in the menu created especially for vata-pitta types like myself, using ingredients that can be easily sourced internationally. he demonstrated pumpkin soup, lentil, green beans and basmati rice, all savoured in the gwaadi, an exclusive private dining space modelled on the traditional Rajasthani houses, complete with sitar player to set the scene for a lunch fit for a maharaja.
I was eager to return to the rural beauty of the surrounding villages in the afternoon with the Cow Dust Tour, a favourite excursion for good reason – it provides a snapshot of authentic village life in stark contrast to the decadence of the resort, where the Meena, the dominant tribal hindu community in the region earn a living by rearing goats and sheep. My guide ‘Rambo’, as he is affectionately known, was kind enough to invite me into his home for a cup of masala chai with his wife, who was dressed in a stunning fuchsia sari, and encouraged me to take photos with his two gorgeous daughters.
Bright dress is characteristic of the attire worn by Rajasthani women, with some head-turning hues catching your eye against the arid landscape, cream of the cornfields and neutral cattle herds plodding along muddy paths. The best part was watching the pure glee on children’s faces to see an unfamiliar foreign face, and hurl themselves the back of our jeep with abandon waving and chasing after it, innocent curiosity and joy you simply don’t see enough.
DAY 4
After a gentle morning ramble around the property, past a lake, more cattle, eventually ending in front of a primary school, I was invited into a local home for homemade chapati, another reminder of the consistent hospitality, curiousity and genuine friendliness of the locals. After a breakfast of fruit and date porridge, I am treated to an udvarthana massage using a paste comprising aromatic powders, which exfoliates, boosts circulation, and is believed to remove fatty deposits and toxins from the body, followed by a steam. It’s refreshing not to be covered in oil for a change and the dry rub leaves my skin silky smooth.
This retreat is for serious spa-goers with at least two hours spent sprawled out on the massage table every day. After the famous sprouted lentil salad and a bowl of warming kitchari, made from rice and lentils, I’m back in the excellent hands of Anu and Veena for another abhyanga massage. So be prepared to be horizontal the majority of the time, so probably not one for those who after a more active, adventurous getaway.
In a Zen state of mind, I meet with Shekhar for a meditation session. he tells me that Dr Sunil spoke to him about our discussion from yesterday about improving sleep and reducing stress, and guides me through nadi sodhana (alternate nostril breathing) to clear blocked energy, and bhramari pranayama, which involves closing the ear cartilage and breathing with a humming bee-like nasal quality to instantly calm nerves, the vibration of the sound leaving a warm tingle around the face. he reminds me that these common issues are not unique to any individual, and that understanding, acceptance and faith are the solutions to most problems. ending with a mantra for protection, he gives me mala hindu prayers beads as a symbol for healing, a keepsake that will remind me of our few but memorable conversations.
Saving the best for last, tonight’s dinner is held at a local chatri overlooking Ajabagarh Valley. A short jeep-ride away, it just so happens to be Mid-Autumn Festival and the glowing orb in all its gloriousness dances on the water between the flickering of floating candles. general manager Karin joined me for a traditional Rajasthani feast of kebabs and thali, a smorgasbord of dahl, paneer, lamb, chicken and vegetables with chapatti and basmati rice, which were not part of the Ayurvedic diet, but delicious nonetheless. With personal chefs and a sitar player to set the magical scene, dining al fresco sprawled out on embellished cushions was an experience most regal.
DAY 5
As promised, my last private yoga session with Shekhar focuses on dynamic stretches, a faster-paced experience with more emphasis on getting the most out of each pose. The improvement in just three classes is incredible, not only with hip mobility that I notice with the ease of the butterfly stretch, and even in the splayed out version of child’s pose with arms outstretched, forehead touching the ground mat and thighs touching with much less effort, I am able to breathe through the burning sensation and relax into a posture that only days ago seemed daunting.
ever the morale booster, Shekhar praises my flexibility and ability to do the side splits, saying he sees a lot of potential if I were to practise more regularly. he shows me steps towards mastering handstands and crow pose and has a knack for making everything seem less intimidating. After closing the session with the usual “Namaste” he tells me how the meaning has evolved into a modern greeting of sorts, whereas its original significance “I bow to the divine in you” acknowledged the purity in soul of the other person. It seems a fitting way to end, having chatted about everything from karma to finding a mentor, (and the future of humanity!) leaving with a newfound respect for one another.
I make an effort to stay awake for the final pizhichil as there will not be many opportunities elsewhere to have this specific treatment, hailing from southern India. Unlike other retreats where treatments are performed by many different therapists, Anu and Veena performed every single one of my massages for the duration of the stay, a lovely touch, allowing us to form a bond and forego the usual formalities of preference of pressure.
In my final consult, Dr Sunil has prepared a comprehensive outline of tips for bringing vata back into balance through lifestyle changes – when to wake, sleep, the recommend types and intensity of exercise. Foods are broken down into ‘favoured’ and ‘to avoid’ columns, with more general guidelines on pacifying the air element with sweet, sour and salty foods, and those that are heavy, oily and warm. From our discussion at dinner, he emphasises taking a holistic approach to health, which for flight vata types means slowing the thought process – focusing on one task rather than many, writing down to-do lists as having something tangible to refer to reduces anxiety and ultimately relinquishing control, since there is no interfering with destiny. When he puts it like this, I feel instantly calmer, and am ready to face the buzz of the city again, equipped with new pearls of wisdom.
